From peregrina to tourist in sunny Salamanca

Last night as I was suffering with allergies in every part of my body from the chest upwards, I decided that my second night in Salamanca would not be in the pilgrims' albergue. It's a very nice place, don't get me wrong, in a beautiful old building right next to the Cathedral, nicely restored, nice common rooms, two sleeping rooms with 4 bunks each, clean bathrooms -- in short, the perfect albergue. But with the encouragement of my pal Werner (an Austrian history teacher), I checked at the four-star hotel right next door and found they had a room with my name on it for 65€, so I splurged. I "moved in" this morning right after breakfast and after the very fine ritual high mass in the old Cathedral, a late romanesque affair that gives you something to look at when your mind drifts from the service itself. I have been able to wash and dry all my clothes (these quick dry hiking clothes dry in less than a half hour in the hot Salamanca sun). Since I've been on the 5 day washing cycle, the cleaning was much needed. I'll be here till 7 am tomorrow, with a wake up call and coffee in the hotel before I hit the road.

Salamanca is really a beautiful city -- yesterday must have been graduation of some sort because there were chic young people parading all around with their families. I also saw 4 wedding parties, lots of First Communions, lots and lots of people out in the streets.

I've been running into almost everyone I've met so far on the Camino. Salamanca is kind of a "bunching up" place -- some people stay here several days, some have taken the bus ahead to get here early and spend some time, and that means that any trip to the Plaza Mayor will inevitably mean I'll see at least a couple of friendly faces. Everyone says the same thing -- how weird it feels to be "just" a tourist, no backpack on your back. And after all the solitude out there on the walk, being in such a bustling place can be a bit overwhelming.

Last night on the way back to the albergue, I went for a quick detour into the Plaza Mayor. It was about 10:30 at night, but you could still see that pure dark blue of the Castilian sky in the moonlight. The plaza was all lit up and filled with everyday Spanish people of all ages. There were still lots of kids running around and babies being held, grandmas and grandpas, tourists and college students. The square itself is just incredible, if you have never seen it, you should try to get here. And the city is one of those that immediately grabs you as a place you'd like to spend some time.

So, off to say a few farewells to people who are leaving the Camino here, and to enjoy some more strolling around. But no boots till tomorrow morning.