In Zuburán's birthplace

And if you don't know who Zuburán is, you should go look it up. Actually, he's not one of my favorite Spanish painters, but I think he has probably painted more saints, Christs, and Virgens than any other painter in the world. His home is open this afternoon, so at least I'll have some afternoon activity (and by afternoon, I mean 5-8 pm, this is Spain remember).

This was another one of those very peaceful (and solitary) walks - the first 10 km or so were through grazing lands, those low rock walls fencing off each family's parcel, with the main animals being goats and cows. For a while it was right next to a brook, and babbling is as good a term as any for what it was doing. Very green and quiet. Then, after about 1 1/2 hour walking, up on a crest, there was my destination in the distance. Well, it must have been about 11 or 12 km in the distance, so there it sat for hours getting slowly closer.

There was just one river/stream for me to cross today. No one would ever compare me to a mountain goat, so it was a bit dicey for me going across, balancing on rocks, trying to use my sticks, but I made it. And then, once on the other side, it seemed like a good place for a rest to soak the feet again. All very invigorating.

Yesterday in Monesterio I got to the church just as a funeral service was ending and First Communion practice was beginning. Some of the people attended both. The kids knew their lines but got all mixed up with which side of the altar, which row, etc they were supposed to be in. Luckily they have practice a couple more times before Saturday. This is really First Communion season. The priest told me he has walked the Camino three times, the Norte once, and the Via de la Plata a couple of times as well. He said he has made it a priority to get an albergue in Monesterio and he's working on putting in a ten bed albergue on the first floor of the house where he lives. I hope he doesn't regret that decision!

I´m in an albergue here, it's one run by the Junta de Extremadura (the government), and for a charge of 10€ you get clean, shocking white sheets, a room with two bunk beds that smells like Lysol, and a bathroom that doesn't have gunk everywhere. It´s great. There's even free internet right here in the nice parlor with several sofas and coffee tables. The next town is the place where I got bedbugs last year, so I will NOT be staying in the Zafra albergue. You can find me at the two star Hotel Cervantes instead (across the street from the 4-star parador, where I've stayed with Joe, Katy and David but think it would be over the top to stay there alone).

Lunch is recommended at Cafe Charo, we´ll see what that looks like. And two other people have arrived at the albergue, it would be nice to actually meet some people! The people in charge of this albergue told me that last night there were 35 people here. Today there are 7. I'm glad not to be in that wave of humanity, though it would be nice to meet some people.