Getting Off the Beaten Path

I know that you probably think that I already AM off the beaten path, but there are lots of lovely things just a hop skip and a jump away from this narrow road that takes us from Sevilla to Santiago. This afternoon, I was able to take the time to walk out the 4 km from Alcuescar to visit a Seventh century, yes that's the number 7, church that's out in a field surrounded by daisies and waiting for visitors. Rather than spend the afternoon eating a big meal in the restaurant that I really enjoyed last year, I bought some yoghurt and an orange and took the street named after the Chestnut Fountain (Fuente del Castaño) and just kept walking on that road till I reached the church.

By then it was 3:15, I had 45 minutes to eat my lunch, take off my boots, and just rest and contemplate the universe. Promptly at 4:00, the woman in charge came and opened up both the church and the visitors' center, all for me. The church is, as these 7th century visigothic churches go, unusual for its three apses. I'm no expert, but I thought it was stunning. Just sitting there and looking around and looking at the arches inside, well it sort of takes your breath away. Mine at least.

And as an added bonus, it was a very nice country walk, through the same old cork and olive tree groves, again in total solitude and with the sky changing from sunny to cloudy to threatening dark clouds every few minutes. But not a drop of rain fell.

The albergue where I am tonight is in a Convent, and we will have a communal dinner at 8 pm. Tomorrow will get me close to Cáceres. I'm thinking I'll stop in the town where the albergue is located in the mayor's office. When he goes home, he just puts a bunch of pads on the floor for us to plunk our sleeping bags on and lets the pilgrims hang their drying clothes outside where the flag of Spain announces the building's official function.

I now know that Gordon Brown is out, the King of Spain does not have cancer, and that Obama called Zapatero to lecture him about the need to take strong measures to combat the crisis. That's what a few minutes in a café with a copy of El País will do for you.