I was going to try to figure out how to embed my pictures into these posts, but decided that I had many better ways to spend my time. So, I broke them down into four different albums and you can see them here:
Sevilla to Caceres http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.reynolds/ViaDeLaPlataSevillaToCaceres#
Caceres to Zamora http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.reynolds/VillaDeLaPlataCaceresToZamora#
Zamora to Santiago http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.reynolds/ViaDeLaPlataZamoraToSantiago#
Santiago to Muxia http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.reynolds/ViaDeLaPlataToFinisterreAndMuxia#
Friday, June 25, 2010
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Back in Santiago, peregrina no more
Yesterday about 3 pm, we arrived in Muxía, a village on the Costa de la Muerte about 30 kms from Finisterre. The high point of the walk for me was finally finding out that I could in fact cross a river on slippery submerged stones that were more than a stride apart without falling in. It was a bit hairy, the water was up to mid-shin, but I made it. And Yolanda tells me she got it all on her camera, but luckily they will be still photos, nothing to show how precariously I was walking. We read in the newspaper yesterday that the authorities have finally budgeted the money to replace the stones with a foot bridge. Those of us who have gone on the stones hope they will leave that option open for the intrepid pilgrim. My Spanish companions could not contain their disgust when they read that the budget for this bridge is 237,000 euros. The guy, who works in construction, said that amount puts one bridge over the river, and the equivalent in the pockets of at least four politicians.
Muxía is the site where the Prestige dumped its oil. There was an exhibition of photos of the spill and the clean-up, and we could still see oil on the rocks pretty much everywhere. It boggles to mind to think what must be going on in the gulf if this one little boat´s contents did this much damage.
So my albergue nights are over for a while. I got a goodbye concert last night, snoring in stereo from three different corners of the albergue. Up at 6:30 to get the 7:30 bus, and here I am back in Santiago.
We have heard that the numbers of peregrinos arriving has suddenly shot up, the newspaper carries the headline that in the last two days more arrived than in the entire two months of January and February. Headline hysteria, since the numbers in January and February are minimal. But it is true that the city is mobbed. The noon pilgrims' mass is going to be held outside to accommodate 3000 disabled pilgrims who arrived this morning. So I will wait till the 1:15 mass, when I can see the botafumeiro swing. Having the compostela (the official certificate that you have walked), entitles you to use a special side entrance with reserved seats for the mass -- so this compostela is worth something!
The streets of Santiago are filled to the brim. Of all the street entertainers, the ones that stick out in my mind are the two who are dressed up, one as Jesus and one as Santiago. They stand on pedestals about four feet from each other, motionless till you drop coins in their buckets. Then they will lean towards each other and you can step in the middle, hold each one's hand, and have your picture taken. Jesus and Santiago in one fell swoop.
Muxía is the site where the Prestige dumped its oil. There was an exhibition of photos of the spill and the clean-up, and we could still see oil on the rocks pretty much everywhere. It boggles to mind to think what must be going on in the gulf if this one little boat´s contents did this much damage.
So my albergue nights are over for a while. I got a goodbye concert last night, snoring in stereo from three different corners of the albergue. Up at 6:30 to get the 7:30 bus, and here I am back in Santiago.
We have heard that the numbers of peregrinos arriving has suddenly shot up, the newspaper carries the headline that in the last two days more arrived than in the entire two months of January and February. Headline hysteria, since the numbers in January and February are minimal. But it is true that the city is mobbed. The noon pilgrims' mass is going to be held outside to accommodate 3000 disabled pilgrims who arrived this morning. So I will wait till the 1:15 mass, when I can see the botafumeiro swing. Having the compostela (the official certificate that you have walked), entitles you to use a special side entrance with reserved seats for the mass -- so this compostela is worth something!
The streets of Santiago are filled to the brim. Of all the street entertainers, the ones that stick out in my mind are the two who are dressed up, one as Jesus and one as Santiago. They stand on pedestals about four feet from each other, motionless till you drop coins in their buckets. Then they will lean towards each other and you can step in the middle, hold each one's hand, and have your picture taken. Jesus and Santiago in one fell swoop.
Friday, June 18, 2010
In Finisterre, the End of the World
Three days' walk from Santiago, here I am at the End of the World, at least according to the Spanish (Portugal also claims to have the westwardmost point of Europe). It has been three beautiful days, we have had glorious weather -- today the sky was sunny and cloudless as we reached the top of the hill where we could see our first seaside town, beach and cove. Some of the trip was kind of tedious, a fair amount of highway walking, but all in all it has been stunning countryside, lots of small towns and dirt paths.
Walking along the beach into Finisterre was a total change from all my Camino walking days. We went straight to the albergue and got our Fisterrana, a pretty certificate (suitable for framing no doubt) that confirms that I have extended my pilgrimage from Santiago to the end. As I was hanging up my washed clothes in the albergue, I looked out in the plaza and thought -- gosh, that guy looks familiar. I ran downstairs, and sure enough it was Mattias, the very first peregrino I met on this walk. We had first met over coffee together in Itálica, the town with the Roman ruins right outside of Sevilla, and we had seen each other off and on until about Salamanca. It was a nice reunion, and we shared a few moments of nostalgia looking back over the six weeks.
I have had my first great fish meal, reminded me of Portugal -- grilled fish, salted and fresh, served with good potatoes. And with the US playing fútbol against Slovenia in the background while we sat out on the terrace watching the activity in the fishing port.
This is a beautiful seaside town, and tomorrow we leave it to head north on my last walk-- 30 km on the coast, down to the beach, up to the headlands. Tomorrow night in Muxia, then the bus to Santiago on Sunday, and that's that.
But the piece de resistance today will no doubt be the sunset -- we will walk up the hill for 3 kms to the lighthouse, and the tradition is to burn a piece of clothing, but I don't have any to spare. Then back to the albergue, the only one on the Camino to be open all night (most lock up at 10 pm), up at 6 am, on to Muxia.
Walking along the beach into Finisterre was a total change from all my Camino walking days. We went straight to the albergue and got our Fisterrana, a pretty certificate (suitable for framing no doubt) that confirms that I have extended my pilgrimage from Santiago to the end. As I was hanging up my washed clothes in the albergue, I looked out in the plaza and thought -- gosh, that guy looks familiar. I ran downstairs, and sure enough it was Mattias, the very first peregrino I met on this walk. We had first met over coffee together in Itálica, the town with the Roman ruins right outside of Sevilla, and we had seen each other off and on until about Salamanca. It was a nice reunion, and we shared a few moments of nostalgia looking back over the six weeks.
I have had my first great fish meal, reminded me of Portugal -- grilled fish, salted and fresh, served with good potatoes. And with the US playing fútbol against Slovenia in the background while we sat out on the terrace watching the activity in the fishing port.
This is a beautiful seaside town, and tomorrow we leave it to head north on my last walk-- 30 km on the coast, down to the beach, up to the headlands. Tomorrow night in Muxia, then the bus to Santiago on Sunday, and that's that.
But the piece de resistance today will no doubt be the sunset -- we will walk up the hill for 3 kms to the lighthouse, and the tradition is to burn a piece of clothing, but I don't have any to spare. Then back to the albergue, the only one on the Camino to be open all night (most lock up at 10 pm), up at 6 am, on to Muxia.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
First day out of Santiago
Yesterday I was so lucky to be able to visit the Pórtico de la Gloria of the Cathedral from the scaffolding. If you are not a fan of romanesque architecture, you will not know what I'm talking about, but it was awesome. There is a several-decades-long study/reform/preservation effort going on with the 12th century Pórtico de la Gloria, one of the jewels of the Spanish Romanesque, and for some reason, the company doing the work has decided to let several groups of ten people per day up there, hard hats and all, to see the incredible statues up close. It was awesome, and I was just lucky to be able to find an open slot on the day I arrived -- other people told me that they had made reservations months in advance. Anyway, it was amazing.
Today I met up with my Spanish friend Yolanda promptly at 7:30 am in the Praça do Obradoiro, the square in front of the cathedral. It was eerie, there was absolutely no one in the square, and I had a few minutes alone with the cathedral from afar. We had a relatively short 22 km day, to Negreira, where there is a very nice albergue.
It was kind of a shock for Yolanda and me, having walked the Via de la Plata, because we have seen today more people than we saw for weeks on the Vdlp. Instead of the Germans on the Vdlp, there is now a predominance of French people. All of us are going to Finisterre, the end of the world, and some of us will continue on to Muxía, a beautiful fishing village about 30 km north of Finisterre. I am still not sure where I will go, but I know I will be in Muxía on Saturday, and back in Santiago on Sunday.
This town has a very touching sculpture, which I remembered from the last time. It is kind of a 3-D thing, on one side you see the man leaving to go find work, with a child reaching through the window trying to pull him back. On the other side, there's a woman inside the house holding a small child and crying -- so many people from this part of Spain left to go find work elsewhere, and most have never come home. It makes you think about the immigration debate in the US and elsewhere -- no one, or very few, WANT to leave their homes, they do it for their families. We should remember that, and we should recognize that we would do the same thing if we were in their situation. Enough preaching.
Today I was able to soak my feet in icy water in the most beautiful spot of the entire camino. A wide river, with beautiful old homes all around, right next to two very old mills with the millstones still there, an ancient bridge, some white water, it was just amazing. And great for the feet. I guess my time here is growing short, only three more days of walking.
One of these years, I am going to arrive in Santiago and say -- enough, already, I'm done with the Camino. But it won't be this year, I'm sure of that.
Today I met up with my Spanish friend Yolanda promptly at 7:30 am in the Praça do Obradoiro, the square in front of the cathedral. It was eerie, there was absolutely no one in the square, and I had a few minutes alone with the cathedral from afar. We had a relatively short 22 km day, to Negreira, where there is a very nice albergue.
It was kind of a shock for Yolanda and me, having walked the Via de la Plata, because we have seen today more people than we saw for weeks on the Vdlp. Instead of the Germans on the Vdlp, there is now a predominance of French people. All of us are going to Finisterre, the end of the world, and some of us will continue on to Muxía, a beautiful fishing village about 30 km north of Finisterre. I am still not sure where I will go, but I know I will be in Muxía on Saturday, and back in Santiago on Sunday.
This town has a very touching sculpture, which I remembered from the last time. It is kind of a 3-D thing, on one side you see the man leaving to go find work, with a child reaching through the window trying to pull him back. On the other side, there's a woman inside the house holding a small child and crying -- so many people from this part of Spain left to go find work elsewhere, and most have never come home. It makes you think about the immigration debate in the US and elsewhere -- no one, or very few, WANT to leave their homes, they do it for their families. We should remember that, and we should recognize that we would do the same thing if we were in their situation. Enough preaching.
Today I was able to soak my feet in icy water in the most beautiful spot of the entire camino. A wide river, with beautiful old homes all around, right next to two very old mills with the millstones still there, an ancient bridge, some white water, it was just amazing. And great for the feet. I guess my time here is growing short, only three more days of walking.
One of these years, I am going to arrive in Santiago and say -- enough, already, I'm done with the Camino. But it won't be this year, I'm sure of that.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
In Santiago!
Well, these last few days have been so different than I imagined. Since I last had access to internet, I have been through the city of Ourense, spent the night in a 16th century wing of a monastery, walked through Galician splendor, seen beautiful towns and churches, and wow, here I am in Santiago again!
Since my departure from Spain is set for Wednesday the 23rd, and I have a plane ticket to Madrid on the 22nd, I knew that if I walked a bit faster and covered more distance, I would have time to spend three or four days walking beyond Santiago to the coast, either to Finisterre (the end of the world, though the Portuguese would dispute that) or to Muxía, or maybe both. And I confess that I wanted to ditch a couple of people for a variety of reasons. So, a long day of 35 km meant that they were out of my camino bubble. And it also meant walking to a place that has a monastery, two bars, and three houses. The monastery of Oseira, started in the 13th century, has an albergue of sorts for peregrinos. There are about 40 beds in a huge room that would hold 200 if full, a bathroom and not much more. The room is quite similar to the albergue in Roncesvalles, but with only a fraction of the beds. There are showers, but you have to go to the monastery ticket office, where they take you up and around and finally you arrive at several shower stalls. I never really figured out how it fit into the architecture of the monastery. But the showers were hot, so no complaints. The room where we slept, however, was definitely not hot, in fact I'd say it was cold and clammy. There were two Germans, one francés, and moi, and since I was the only woman, I got the extra blanket that was hidden somewhere in the albergue.
Luckily, the nice monks who live in the monastery will provide blankets to peregrinos, so after about a 40 minute wait for blankets, some finally arrived (in the meantime, we kept seeing the same monk going in and out of the door where we were waiting, every time he asked us what we wanted, we said mantas (blankets) and he told us "No soy el encargado de las mantas." (I'm not the one in charge of blankets). But we finally got them, and even I wasn't cold during the night. But you have to see the pictures of this place to believe it, I think that many of my friends and family would not be happy sleeping there.
Though the weather has been rain rain rain, none of it, or very little of it, has fallen on me. I feel like I'm in a protective bubble or something, and I'm very happy for that. The weather changes from moment to moment, and lots of rain has fallen, but I have had only one day of intermittent rain and one day with some drizzle, so I am not complaining.
This Camino has not been one of immediate human contact, I don't know why. This is really the first Camino in which I have developed strong negative feelings about some of the more ponderous peregrinos, who have scolded me for many things -- I walk too fast, I visit too many churches, I don't wait for them, etc, etc. But Yolanda, the madrileña, is a very nice woman and I'm so glad to have met her. We will have a fine walk out to the coast.
Since my departure from Spain is set for Wednesday the 23rd, and I have a plane ticket to Madrid on the 22nd, I knew that if I walked a bit faster and covered more distance, I would have time to spend three or four days walking beyond Santiago to the coast, either to Finisterre (the end of the world, though the Portuguese would dispute that) or to Muxía, or maybe both. And I confess that I wanted to ditch a couple of people for a variety of reasons. So, a long day of 35 km meant that they were out of my camino bubble. And it also meant walking to a place that has a monastery, two bars, and three houses. The monastery of Oseira, started in the 13th century, has an albergue of sorts for peregrinos. There are about 40 beds in a huge room that would hold 200 if full, a bathroom and not much more. The room is quite similar to the albergue in Roncesvalles, but with only a fraction of the beds. There are showers, but you have to go to the monastery ticket office, where they take you up and around and finally you arrive at several shower stalls. I never really figured out how it fit into the architecture of the monastery. But the showers were hot, so no complaints. The room where we slept, however, was definitely not hot, in fact I'd say it was cold and clammy. There were two Germans, one francés, and moi, and since I was the only woman, I got the extra blanket that was hidden somewhere in the albergue.
Luckily, the nice monks who live in the monastery will provide blankets to peregrinos, so after about a 40 minute wait for blankets, some finally arrived (in the meantime, we kept seeing the same monk going in and out of the door where we were waiting, every time he asked us what we wanted, we said mantas (blankets) and he told us "No soy el encargado de las mantas." (I'm not the one in charge of blankets). But we finally got them, and even I wasn't cold during the night. But you have to see the pictures of this place to believe it, I think that many of my friends and family would not be happy sleeping there.
Though the weather has been rain rain rain, none of it, or very little of it, has fallen on me. I feel like I'm in a protective bubble or something, and I'm very happy for that. The weather changes from moment to moment, and lots of rain has fallen, but I have had only one day of intermittent rain and one day with some drizzle, so I am not complaining.
This Camino has not been one of immediate human contact, I don't know why. This is really the first Camino in which I have developed strong negative feelings about some of the more ponderous peregrinos, who have scolded me for many things -- I walk too fast, I visit too many churches, I don't wait for them, etc, etc. But Yolanda, the madrileña, is a very nice woman and I'm so glad to have met her. We will have a fine walk out to the coast.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Short day to Xunqueira
I think I set my record for sleeping in on the Camino today -- didn't wake up till 7:30. Must have been the quiet (only two other people in two huge rooms) and the steady beating of the rain. When I got up, it was still raining, but after drinking two cups of the bad instant coffee that I am carrying (which is made only slightly more palatable when I squeeze in some of the "condensed milk in a tube"), the rain had stopped. We (Herman the German) and I left at 8:30 and had a day of perfect weather. The sun even poked through a few times, and the landscape was more of the beautiful old oak tree tunnels next to stone walls, with bazillions of beautiful ferns. The shapes of some of these trees are just incredible, twisted trunks, branches shooting in all weird directions, kind of reminded me of Hansel and Gretel's forest.
It was a very short 13 km to Xunqueira, and by 12:30 we were in the albergue, and that included a long coffee stop in a bar in some isolated little hamlet and several photo ops. It's a weird looking albergue, you enter through what looks like a rusted tin can, but it is modern and clean. And in Galicia it seems that the bathrooms in the albergues are all sex-segregated. This is GREAT for me, since there are about 8-10 males for every female on this Camino. And they all have electric hand dryers, which is great for trying to dry out your boots or whatever clothes are wet.
There is a beautiful romanesque church in the village, which I will of course visit this afternoon. Plus the town has TWO little food stores, not often the case in these places, so I am hopeful I'll be able to replenish my food bag with yoghurts and fruit.
I am resisting the temptation to look at the weather; there are still black clouds in many directions and the cloud cover is total, but I think the worst is supposedly over, for this front anyway. Maybe some of my wash will dry this afternoon, that would be nice!
It was a very short 13 km to Xunqueira, and by 12:30 we were in the albergue, and that included a long coffee stop in a bar in some isolated little hamlet and several photo ops. It's a weird looking albergue, you enter through what looks like a rusted tin can, but it is modern and clean. And in Galicia it seems that the bathrooms in the albergues are all sex-segregated. This is GREAT for me, since there are about 8-10 males for every female on this Camino. And they all have electric hand dryers, which is great for trying to dry out your boots or whatever clothes are wet.
There is a beautiful romanesque church in the village, which I will of course visit this afternoon. Plus the town has TWO little food stores, not often the case in these places, so I am hopeful I'll be able to replenish my food bag with yoghurts and fruit.
I am resisting the temptation to look at the weather; there are still black clouds in many directions and the cloud cover is total, but I think the worst is supposedly over, for this front anyway. Maybe some of my wash will dry this afternoon, that would be nice!
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Gloomy days
Just so no one will get the impression that the Camino is a walk in the park, through beautiful villages, spectacular natural settings, seasoned with good food and wine, let me tell you about the last few days. Yesterday, as we left A Gudiña, prepared for rain, it began to drizzle, so the ponchos went on. Soon it had stopped, though, and we spent the next four or more hours walking in dark cloudy (but dry) weather, feeling like we were in an airplane looking down on the deforested Galician mountains below. As we began our descent to what we thought was going to be our destination, it started to rain, and the km or so of sliding on slate and rocks in the rain was not fun. Once in the town, we went to the pensión where we intended to stay, only to be told that all the rooms were booked (I guess I had gotten lulled into thinking that the empty albergues meant no pilgrims on the road). At this point, the options were two -- to continue another 14 km to a town with a big albergue or take a cab to that point. Three opted for a cab, one opted to continue. You probably know who took the walking option.
The rain was light but pretty steady, but it went through some pretty towns, nice valleys, and I was singing "she'll be coming round the mountain" pretty loud since there were no human beings anywhere to be seen. Arriving at the albergue was very nice, but you ought to think about what it means to be in a place that is filled with wet clothes that 32 people have been wearing for at least the past day. Nothing on the lines outside of course, it's raining, so the chairs and bunk beds were draped with wet socks, wet pants, etc, the boots all soggy and stuffed with newspaper. It was not exactly a beautiful scene, but the showers were hot and I had some dry clothes.
The weather was a downer, but nothing compared to the news that Dana was leaving the Camino and heading home for family reasons. She is now, I hope, in Madrid or close to it and will soon be on a big plane home. It was pretty grim at the albergue last night and everyone was very kind to me as I sat there worried about Dana and feeling sorry for myself. But danagrina, the camino isn't going anywhere, and we will be back.
Today promised to have more rain, so when the people in the next bunk got up at 5 (and we thought 5:30 was early!) and started rustling around, I just decided to get up and see what was going on. Incredibly, about 22 people were out getting dressed and ready to plunge out into the pretty steady rain. The two people I was walking with were not in favor of that, so at 8 am, with the rain lightening up a bit, we went and had breakfast and then decided to make a run for the next albergue, about 24 km away. Somehow, we made the ascent (about 1500´) on the road (to avoid wet paths) without any real rain. Though when you walk through fog for several hours, you get wet anyway. Got dried off at a bar on the top, a well known place with thousands of scallop shells signed by pilgrims hanging on every surface inside (I hung one myself) and then started the 9 remaining kms to the next town. As we left the bar, the rain was coming down, but within 5 minutes it had stopped and for the rest of the way we had absolutely not a drop of rain, even some clear skies. We were able to get back on the camino and off the highway, and when we arrived at the albergue in Vilar do Barrio, we were astonished to see we three are the only ones here. Everyone else, who left in the rain at 6, must have gone on.
No sooner had we gotten settled in the albergue and the skies opened and we had a pounding rain for more than an hour. Maybe more tomorrow, but for now I'm dry and warm and even had my first pulpo gallego on the way in. There is a fair in this town on the 9th of every month, and two octopus sellers come to town and set up tents. Yum yum, just octopus, olive oil, and paprika, a few hunks of bread, all served on a wooden plate, and you are good to go.
The rain was light but pretty steady, but it went through some pretty towns, nice valleys, and I was singing "she'll be coming round the mountain" pretty loud since there were no human beings anywhere to be seen. Arriving at the albergue was very nice, but you ought to think about what it means to be in a place that is filled with wet clothes that 32 people have been wearing for at least the past day. Nothing on the lines outside of course, it's raining, so the chairs and bunk beds were draped with wet socks, wet pants, etc, the boots all soggy and stuffed with newspaper. It was not exactly a beautiful scene, but the showers were hot and I had some dry clothes.
The weather was a downer, but nothing compared to the news that Dana was leaving the Camino and heading home for family reasons. She is now, I hope, in Madrid or close to it and will soon be on a big plane home. It was pretty grim at the albergue last night and everyone was very kind to me as I sat there worried about Dana and feeling sorry for myself. But danagrina, the camino isn't going anywhere, and we will be back.
Today promised to have more rain, so when the people in the next bunk got up at 5 (and we thought 5:30 was early!) and started rustling around, I just decided to get up and see what was going on. Incredibly, about 22 people were out getting dressed and ready to plunge out into the pretty steady rain. The two people I was walking with were not in favor of that, so at 8 am, with the rain lightening up a bit, we went and had breakfast and then decided to make a run for the next albergue, about 24 km away. Somehow, we made the ascent (about 1500´) on the road (to avoid wet paths) without any real rain. Though when you walk through fog for several hours, you get wet anyway. Got dried off at a bar on the top, a well known place with thousands of scallop shells signed by pilgrims hanging on every surface inside (I hung one myself) and then started the 9 remaining kms to the next town. As we left the bar, the rain was coming down, but within 5 minutes it had stopped and for the rest of the way we had absolutely not a drop of rain, even some clear skies. We were able to get back on the camino and off the highway, and when we arrived at the albergue in Vilar do Barrio, we were astonished to see we three are the only ones here. Everyone else, who left in the rain at 6, must have gone on.
No sooner had we gotten settled in the albergue and the skies opened and we had a pounding rain for more than an hour. Maybe more tomorrow, but for now I'm dry and warm and even had my first pulpo gallego on the way in. There is a fair in this town on the 9th of every month, and two octopus sellers come to town and set up tents. Yum yum, just octopus, olive oil, and paprika, a few hunks of bread, all served on a wooden plate, and you are good to go.
Monday, June 7, 2010
In Galicia
We have left Castilla y León behind and entered the region of Galicia. We left our B&B at about 7:30 after a very bad breakfast, and by 9:00 we came out of an old oak tree tunnel that had taken us all the way up the mountain to the Canda pass, and we saw the sign that told us we had ascended to 1281 meters and that we had entered Galicia. At about 3 pm today, after a long day with a few more ups and downs, and one incident where Dana, Herman (a German man we occasionally walk with), and I got split up looking for a bar, we finally arrived in the town of A Gudiña.
These last few days have been just incredible, we have been walking along rivers, down old lanes with ancient stone walls covered with moss, and tree trunks that are goblin-like in appearance. There have been plenty of opportunities for soaking our feet in ice cold running water, either in streams or in the little canals of water that run throughout the towns we've been walking through. The amount of water running through this region is pretty incredible.
We did have a moon-like stretch today through a part of Galicia where no water seemed to reach. Kind of desert terrain with huge boulders all over the place. But for the most part, we are in green, wet Galicia.
Our last three nights' accommodation have been in private albergue (fantastic, spotless, with clean sheets washed daily), then in a private Casa Rural, the Casa Pachaca (very nice, in an old remodeled stone house, with a great pork chop dinner -- yes I ate pork chops!), and then today we are in the municipal albergue where they give you paper sheets and pillow cover for the bedding (I assume this is an anti-bed bug measure). We have seen a definite increase in the numbers, in fact, today I think there are almost 20 people in the albergue.
Yesterday, in our nice little hamlet of stone houses, barroque chapels, and lots of fountains, we had intended to go to the albergue. When we arrived, and I went upstairs, I saw that we would be pretty squished, well, ok, we can deal with that, and there were lots of people, well ok, but then I heard that the toilet wasn't working -- as Dana said, that's a deal killer. So we headed out to hunt down the pretty little Casa Rural and had a very nice, almost luxurious room in comparison to what awaited us in the albergue. How 20 people can stand to spend the night in a place with no running water and no toilet is beyond me -- and to top it off, the person in charge came and collected 5 € from everyone!
In two weeks we will be arriving in Santiago, I can't believe it. We have some mountainous days ahead of us, and probably rain, but we are well
These last few days have been just incredible, we have been walking along rivers, down old lanes with ancient stone walls covered with moss, and tree trunks that are goblin-like in appearance. There have been plenty of opportunities for soaking our feet in ice cold running water, either in streams or in the little canals of water that run throughout the towns we've been walking through. The amount of water running through this region is pretty incredible.
We did have a moon-like stretch today through a part of Galicia where no water seemed to reach. Kind of desert terrain with huge boulders all over the place. But for the most part, we are in green, wet Galicia.
Our last three nights' accommodation have been in private albergue (fantastic, spotless, with clean sheets washed daily), then in a private Casa Rural, the Casa Pachaca (very nice, in an old remodeled stone house, with a great pork chop dinner -- yes I ate pork chops!), and then today we are in the municipal albergue where they give you paper sheets and pillow cover for the bedding (I assume this is an anti-bed bug measure). We have seen a definite increase in the numbers, in fact, today I think there are almost 20 people in the albergue.
Yesterday, in our nice little hamlet of stone houses, barroque chapels, and lots of fountains, we had intended to go to the albergue. When we arrived, and I went upstairs, I saw that we would be pretty squished, well, ok, we can deal with that, and there were lots of people, well ok, but then I heard that the toilet wasn't working -- as Dana said, that's a deal killer. So we headed out to hunt down the pretty little Casa Rural and had a very nice, almost luxurious room in comparison to what awaited us in the albergue. How 20 people can stand to spend the night in a place with no running water and no toilet is beyond me -- and to top it off, the person in charge came and collected 5 € from everyone!
In two weeks we will be arriving in Santiago, I can't believe it. We have some mountainous days ahead of us, and probably rain, but we are well
Friday, June 4, 2010
Rest Day in Puebla de Sanabria
Well, almost a rest day. We had a very beautiful 13 km stroll from our last night's resting place. The terrain is changing, we are now walking through much more wooded areas, lots of streams (and muddy paths to navigate), and the architecture is now the typical northern Spain construction of big stones, slate roofs, and wooden balconies. No more orange terra cotta round roof tiles in sight. We have been through a lot of little towns with many beautiful homes in ruins, and now here we are in a big tourist town with lots of beautiful homes that have been redone. I think that today in our walk we passed through 6 towns and saw a total of fewer than ten people. But all that changed when we crossed the river and arrived in Puebla de Sanabria. We are staying in the Posada La Pascasia, http://www.lapascasia.com/, right on the main drag and with a great view to the river below. The old town has almost entirely old stone houses, lots of flowers on the balconies, and today is market day. There is a romanesque church that is very beautiful, and tonight it will be open for us to peek inside.
It seems like there can't be a Camino without some kind of construction. This time it's not highway construction we're running into, but construction of the high speed train the AVE, which will go from Madrid to Santiago de Compostela. It hasn't been too bad, but the people in charge obviously care nothing about peregrinos, and we are sent looping up and down, around and back, just to keep us out of the way of their heavy machinery. Not that I want a run-in with a steam roller, but there have got to be better paths they could send us on.
We are off to check in to our little posada, will visit the castle and the museum this afternoon, and buy food for the next few days. And of course the clothes washing routine, something we've grown quite fond of. To top it all off, a good meal perhaps, there seem to be a lot of organic restaurants in this place for some reason. And lots of tourists to make sure the prices are high, but it's a splurge day.
It seems like there can't be a Camino without some kind of construction. This time it's not highway construction we're running into, but construction of the high speed train the AVE, which will go from Madrid to Santiago de Compostela. It hasn't been too bad, but the people in charge obviously care nothing about peregrinos, and we are sent looping up and down, around and back, just to keep us out of the way of their heavy machinery. Not that I want a run-in with a steam roller, but there have got to be better paths they could send us on.
We are off to check in to our little posada, will visit the castle and the museum this afternoon, and buy food for the next few days. And of course the clothes washing routine, something we've grown quite fond of. To top it all off, a good meal perhaps, there seem to be a lot of organic restaurants in this place for some reason. And lots of tourists to make sure the prices are high, but it's a splurge day.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Alone in Rionegro del Puente
We had a long day today (28 km), and it was hot, but there were many very nice parts. We started out walking along the Tera River, through cottonwood trees and it was cool and breezy. But by 11 or so, the sun was really beating down, and we took rest stops in two of the three little towns we walked through. Not one of them had a bar or store, but we managed to find shady spots -- one on the stairs leading up to the church's bell tower, and another on a bench in the shade near a reservoir.
The town we're in now has two bars, no stores, no pharmacy, but luckily the bars serve meals so we will get something to eat. There is a new albergue, done beautifully in a very old stone building. There are two floors with rooms of beds, a balcony, modern bathrooms, kitchen, drying patios, reading rooms, etc. -- and two pilgrims! We think some cyclists might arrive, or maybe two old German guys who were in our albergue last night, but this is really kind of weird having no company at all. We will lock the door when we go to bed, for sure.
As we were leaving our last little town of the day, something de Farfón, we saw a sign for water with an arrow pointing to the left, and there was a fountain. As we went to fill our bottles, a head popped out of the garage door speaking English. Turns out this guy and his wife (maybe from South Africa, we weren't sure of the accent) and their two daughters are renovating a fallen down adobe house and making a home in this town, where there are three or four other inhabitants. They are home-schooling their daughters and hope to open an albergue in their house within the year. The man was very nice (we didn't meet anyone else), but it seems like a pretty daunting task. The woman who owns the bar here in Rionegro knows all about them and thinks they're nuts. I'm not sure what I think, but I did think about their situation as I was walking the last 6 kms of the day and decided I wouldn't want to move my family into a town with four other people and the nearest grocery store 45 km away. But I sure hope they make it work.
Tomorrow we will have another long day, and we're hoping that this afternoon's torrential downpour (which began after we arrived and gave us an excuse to go drink beer and eat potato chips) will cool things down a bit. We'll be in Palacios de Sanabria, which sounds like a very regal place but all we're hoping for is a grocery store.
The town we're in now has two bars, no stores, no pharmacy, but luckily the bars serve meals so we will get something to eat. There is a new albergue, done beautifully in a very old stone building. There are two floors with rooms of beds, a balcony, modern bathrooms, kitchen, drying patios, reading rooms, etc. -- and two pilgrims! We think some cyclists might arrive, or maybe two old German guys who were in our albergue last night, but this is really kind of weird having no company at all. We will lock the door when we go to bed, for sure.
As we were leaving our last little town of the day, something de Farfón, we saw a sign for water with an arrow pointing to the left, and there was a fountain. As we went to fill our bottles, a head popped out of the garage door speaking English. Turns out this guy and his wife (maybe from South Africa, we weren't sure of the accent) and their two daughters are renovating a fallen down adobe house and making a home in this town, where there are three or four other inhabitants. They are home-schooling their daughters and hope to open an albergue in their house within the year. The man was very nice (we didn't meet anyone else), but it seems like a pretty daunting task. The woman who owns the bar here in Rionegro knows all about them and thinks they're nuts. I'm not sure what I think, but I did think about their situation as I was walking the last 6 kms of the day and decided I wouldn't want to move my family into a town with four other people and the nearest grocery store 45 km away. But I sure hope they make it work.
Tomorrow we will have another long day, and we're hoping that this afternoon's torrential downpour (which began after we arrived and gave us an excuse to go drink beer and eat potato chips) will cool things down a bit. We'll be in Palacios de Sanabria, which sounds like a very regal place but all we're hoping for is a grocery store.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
The oldest statue of Santiago
We are in a fabulous private albergue tonight. Clean bathrooms, hot showers, free internet, washing machine for the clothes, and good food cooking for us to eat soon. All for 19€, and no extra charge for the snoring. As usual, the other walkers are German and the few cyclists are all Spanish. But there are only 9 or 10 of us in an albergue with space for 50, so I guess the crowds are either ahead of us or behind us.
We are still in Castilla, so the land is relatively flat, though one guide book correctly describes this part as one of "llanos falsos" (false flats) -- you think it's flat but you are always going up and down and those 100 meter ascents add up at the end of the day. The land alternates between mediterranean scrub forest (if that makes any sense -- oaks, pines, bushes, flowers) and cultivated land, mainly wheat or hay. I did see several abandoned corn fields and that hurt my east central Illinois aesthetic. We´ve had relatively manageable days, in terms of kilometers (between 22 and 27), but the heat makes even the short day a bit harder to manage.
This afternoon we were lucky to be able to visit the church in the town next door, and there we saw what is reputed to be the oldest statue of Saint James Pilgrim (Santiago Peregrino). From the 11th Century, sitting on the portal of an even older church. The inside of the church was beautiful -- small, irregular arches, lots of beautifully preserved capitals -- just romanesque perfection!
We have a few more days till we get into Galicia, and I think that's where the ups and downs begin in earnest!
We are still in Castilla, so the land is relatively flat, though one guide book correctly describes this part as one of "llanos falsos" (false flats) -- you think it's flat but you are always going up and down and those 100 meter ascents add up at the end of the day. The land alternates between mediterranean scrub forest (if that makes any sense -- oaks, pines, bushes, flowers) and cultivated land, mainly wheat or hay. I did see several abandoned corn fields and that hurt my east central Illinois aesthetic. We´ve had relatively manageable days, in terms of kilometers (between 22 and 27), but the heat makes even the short day a bit harder to manage.
This afternoon we were lucky to be able to visit the church in the town next door, and there we saw what is reputed to be the oldest statue of Saint James Pilgrim (Santiago Peregrino). From the 11th Century, sitting on the portal of an even older church. The inside of the church was beautiful -- small, irregular arches, lots of beautifully preserved capitals -- just romanesque perfection!
We have a few more days till we get into Galicia, and I think that's where the ups and downs begin in earnest!
Monday, May 31, 2010
HOT in Tábara
If you have never heard of Tábara, you should know that it's three days walking from Zamora and has an absolutely beautiful romanesque church with a tower with three layers of arches, just terrific. I am here, in a pensión with a shared bathroom that has cold water and a burned out light bulb, so don't think I'm living it up over here.
So, Dana and I have been walking for three days now. We are walking through a lot of flat land or rolling hills, most of it agricultural, but today that landscape was interrupted by the Esla River and our short straight up ascent to the top of a rocky ledge with views to die for over the river. We sat and rested and listened to the birds and all in all felt very grateful for having the chance to do this. Our days have been long and hot recently, the temperature is up in the high 80s, maybe 90s, so we try to get up and go very early and stop walking by 2 pm.
We have not been staying in albergues because there always seems to be a "casa rural" that rents out rooms and has clean sheets and clean bathrooms. We are suckers for clean sheets, which are nowhere to be found in the albergues as we know them. In Montamarta, our first stop outside Zamora, the albergue is a bit outside of town, and one peregrino had food and clothing stolen, not nice. Some of the towns have been pretty deserted and unexciting, but we had nice rooms in the "Casa del Sastre" and "Casa del Tio Quico" in two very small towns. Today we're in a bigger town and are in the hostal's "overflow" accommodations -- the hostal itself was sold out because of many construction workers here helping to build a fast train from Zamora north.
Yesterday we were in a town with a XIIth century monastery a few kilometers away, so after lunch, I walked over and back (without backpack, so I felt like I was flying) and had a very nice visit. The church itself is pretty much in ruins, thanks to those awful French invaders, and much of the monastery has been turned into piles of rocks. The "sala de los monjes" (room of the monks) was very well preserved and had beautiful low barrel vaulted arches and nice brick work. And part of the church's outside is in great shape. The setting for this monastery is spectacular, very bucolic, near a river, and the visit was a lot of fun. I spent about a half an hour with my boots off sitting in the shade and eating nuts and apricots, looking at the amazing seven apses, layered on top with more apses, and I felt very luck indeed.
The route is deserted. We never see anyone, or at most one other person, walking during the day. I have read online that if I were walking the Camino Francés there would always be between 20 and 40 people in sight in front of me at any given time. I am GLAD we're not there. This way is pretty isolated and untraveled. When we arrive in towns, people come out to say hello and ask where we are from. And I think that we are lucky to be walking at an uncrowded time -- the vast majority of those who walk the Via de la Plata begin at the latest in early May. So we are well behind the crowds.
So, Dana and I have been walking for three days now. We are walking through a lot of flat land or rolling hills, most of it agricultural, but today that landscape was interrupted by the Esla River and our short straight up ascent to the top of a rocky ledge with views to die for over the river. We sat and rested and listened to the birds and all in all felt very grateful for having the chance to do this. Our days have been long and hot recently, the temperature is up in the high 80s, maybe 90s, so we try to get up and go very early and stop walking by 2 pm.
We have not been staying in albergues because there always seems to be a "casa rural" that rents out rooms and has clean sheets and clean bathrooms. We are suckers for clean sheets, which are nowhere to be found in the albergues as we know them. In Montamarta, our first stop outside Zamora, the albergue is a bit outside of town, and one peregrino had food and clothing stolen, not nice. Some of the towns have been pretty deserted and unexciting, but we had nice rooms in the "Casa del Sastre" and "Casa del Tio Quico" in two very small towns. Today we're in a bigger town and are in the hostal's "overflow" accommodations -- the hostal itself was sold out because of many construction workers here helping to build a fast train from Zamora north.
Yesterday we were in a town with a XIIth century monastery a few kilometers away, so after lunch, I walked over and back (without backpack, so I felt like I was flying) and had a very nice visit. The church itself is pretty much in ruins, thanks to those awful French invaders, and much of the monastery has been turned into piles of rocks. The "sala de los monjes" (room of the monks) was very well preserved and had beautiful low barrel vaulted arches and nice brick work. And part of the church's outside is in great shape. The setting for this monastery is spectacular, very bucolic, near a river, and the visit was a lot of fun. I spent about a half an hour with my boots off sitting in the shade and eating nuts and apricots, looking at the amazing seven apses, layered on top with more apses, and I felt very luck indeed.
The route is deserted. We never see anyone, or at most one other person, walking during the day. I have read online that if I were walking the Camino Francés there would always be between 20 and 40 people in sight in front of me at any given time. I am GLAD we're not there. This way is pretty isolated and untraveled. When we arrive in towns, people come out to say hello and ask where we are from. And I think that we are lucky to be walking at an uncrowded time -- the vast majority of those who walk the Via de la Plata begin at the latest in early May. So we are well behind the crowds.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Rest Day in Zamora
For the life of me, I can't understand why Zamora is not more of a tourist destination. It's a lovely, lively little city. There are streets lined with modernist buildings from the early 20th century, art deco and all that, just beautiful. The castle, which dates to pre-roman times, has been restored and is very visitor-friendly, such fun to walk around. AND, there are more than 20 romanesque churches, ranging from the tiny cozy Santiago de los Caballeros (where El Cid reportedly prayed) to the larger romanesque churches around the center, with all sorts of beautiful capitals and different types of decoration. To top it all off, the old city is walled and sits right on the banks of the Douro/Duero River, with its old roman/medieval bridge for pilgrims to cross.
Yesterday was my lucky day, for two main reasons. First, my dear friend and walking partner Danagrina arrived from the U.S. and we will continue on together tomorrow. Second, in the morning I got a ride out to the Visigothisc 7th century San Pedro de la Nave, 23 km from Zamora in the middle of nowhere. The hospitalero at the albergue heard about my plans and wanted to see the church, so he drove me out, and then I walked back. It was one of the high points of the Camino so far. Both the inside and the outside of the church are just spectacular.
The carvings on the capitals are beautiful, some are vegetal, some are human scenes, but they are almost all in untouched condition. It was a terrific way to spend a rest day. The 23 km back to Zamora were pleasant, all except for the 8 km I had to walk on the highway because I lost the arrows on the way back to town. (I get lost when the arrows are pointing in my direction, so imagine how hard it was for me to follow the arrows backwards).
Tomorrow I will start walking again, 20 days or so to Santiago, all is well, the scenery is changing, but the weather keeps blessing us with cool and cloudy. No complaints!
Yesterday was my lucky day, for two main reasons. First, my dear friend and walking partner Danagrina arrived from the U.S. and we will continue on together tomorrow. Second, in the morning I got a ride out to the Visigothisc 7th century San Pedro de la Nave, 23 km from Zamora in the middle of nowhere. The hospitalero at the albergue heard about my plans and wanted to see the church, so he drove me out, and then I walked back. It was one of the high points of the Camino so far. Both the inside and the outside of the church are just spectacular.
The carvings on the capitals are beautiful, some are vegetal, some are human scenes, but they are almost all in untouched condition. It was a terrific way to spend a rest day. The 23 km back to Zamora were pleasant, all except for the 8 km I had to walk on the highway because I lost the arrows on the way back to town. (I get lost when the arrows are pointing in my direction, so imagine how hard it was for me to follow the arrows backwards).
Tomorrow I will start walking again, 20 days or so to Santiago, all is well, the scenery is changing, but the weather keeps blessing us with cool and cloudy. No complaints!
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Pilgrims' Penance on the Way to Zamora
I decided to spend three days getting from Salamanca to Zamora. That put me on the road less travelled, because most people do it in two long 35 km days. The first day was pretty enough, bringing me to Calzada de Valdunciel. But the second day.....
There were at least 17 km right next to the brand new super-highway A-66. This super-highway was neither designed nor engineered with pilgrims in mind. What should have been a long 33 km walk became an interminable up and down back and forth that never seemed to end. One of the Spanish guide books talks about "llanos falsos" (fake flats) because Castilla and León are supposedly all flat and midwestern, but in reality there are ups and downs all over the place. Whoever designed the A-66 decided that nature hadn't given us enough of those ups and downs, and so the peregrino walking has to go up and down and around every time the super-highway has an overpass. It was not fun, not pretty, but at least it wasn't hot either.
I spent last night in an albergue turístico in a town called Villanueva del Campeán. This town has hundreds of houses, most of them shut up tight, ten children and a total of 80 inhabitants. The albergue had a nice room with beds for 12, and there were only 5 of us. Since the albergue is run by the bar next door, and since there are no stores in town, there's kind of a monopoly situation here in terms of where to eat dinner. I had the first really good tortilla española and some wonderful locally grown greens, so I was a happy camper.
I'm now in Zamora, it's an incredible town. You can see it when you are 11 or 12 km away, kind of like the Emerald City. But what you can't make out on the skyline is the cathedral. In most of the cities I have walked into, the cathedral dominates the skyline -- not so in Zamora. Not until I was about 10 minutes (walking) out of town did I even see the very recognizable cathedral tower and dome. I may have mentioned this already but there are more than 20 romanesque churches here, so I am in hog heaven.
The albergue in Zamora is terrific. There are rooms with 3 bunk beds and a private bath/shower, a huge commons room, and a kitchen. Such luxury. When the hospitalero ("guy in charge") saw that the sheet on my bunk had a spot on it, he whisked it away and brought a clean one. If he only knew about the condition of the beds I've slept on in the last few weeks....
This hospitalero is a volunteer from Portugal doing a two week stint. He was delighted to find out that I speak Portuguese so we have had several long chats. When I asked whether I could leave my backpack in the albergue during the day so I could walk out to San Pedro de la Nave (a 7th century visigothic church about 23 km outside of the city), he offered take me in his car since he wants to see it as well. I will go with him and then try to walk back, we'll see if the way is marked.
Well, here in Zamora marks the end of my solitary camino. Dana is arriving tomorrow from California, and we will take on the last 400 kms together. I will be here in Zamora for another couple of days, it is too beautiful a city to just walk through.
There were at least 17 km right next to the brand new super-highway A-66. This super-highway was neither designed nor engineered with pilgrims in mind. What should have been a long 33 km walk became an interminable up and down back and forth that never seemed to end. One of the Spanish guide books talks about "llanos falsos" (fake flats) because Castilla and León are supposedly all flat and midwestern, but in reality there are ups and downs all over the place. Whoever designed the A-66 decided that nature hadn't given us enough of those ups and downs, and so the peregrino walking has to go up and down and around every time the super-highway has an overpass. It was not fun, not pretty, but at least it wasn't hot either.
I spent last night in an albergue turístico in a town called Villanueva del Campeán. This town has hundreds of houses, most of them shut up tight, ten children and a total of 80 inhabitants. The albergue had a nice room with beds for 12, and there were only 5 of us. Since the albergue is run by the bar next door, and since there are no stores in town, there's kind of a monopoly situation here in terms of where to eat dinner. I had the first really good tortilla española and some wonderful locally grown greens, so I was a happy camper.
I'm now in Zamora, it's an incredible town. You can see it when you are 11 or 12 km away, kind of like the Emerald City. But what you can't make out on the skyline is the cathedral. In most of the cities I have walked into, the cathedral dominates the skyline -- not so in Zamora. Not until I was about 10 minutes (walking) out of town did I even see the very recognizable cathedral tower and dome. I may have mentioned this already but there are more than 20 romanesque churches here, so I am in hog heaven.
The albergue in Zamora is terrific. There are rooms with 3 bunk beds and a private bath/shower, a huge commons room, and a kitchen. Such luxury. When the hospitalero ("guy in charge") saw that the sheet on my bunk had a spot on it, he whisked it away and brought a clean one. If he only knew about the condition of the beds I've slept on in the last few weeks....
This hospitalero is a volunteer from Portugal doing a two week stint. He was delighted to find out that I speak Portuguese so we have had several long chats. When I asked whether I could leave my backpack in the albergue during the day so I could walk out to San Pedro de la Nave (a 7th century visigothic church about 23 km outside of the city), he offered take me in his car since he wants to see it as well. I will go with him and then try to walk back, we'll see if the way is marked.
Well, here in Zamora marks the end of my solitary camino. Dana is arriving tomorrow from California, and we will take on the last 400 kms together. I will be here in Zamora for another couple of days, it is too beautiful a city to just walk through.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Lost (and Found) on the Via de la Plata
I left Salamanca this morning as the town was waking up. Many people (mostly women) were cleaning the portals of their buildings, sweeping the sidewalks in front of them, washing windows. Then there were workers (mostly men) washing every square inch of street in the city of Salamanca, emptying garbage bins, and to top it all off there were (I kid you not) small car-sized vacuum cleaners driving around vroom vroom vroom to pick up the stuff the others didn't get.
At the moment I hit the edge of town, up pulled a cab and out popped a "new" pilgrim (new to me, anyway). I said Hola buenos días, he looked at me sheepishly and I continued on. A few roundabouts down the road, as I was looking for the arrows, he caught up with me and we had a more formal greeting. The first words out of his mouth were not his name, hello, how are you or anything like that but rather an explanation of how he happened to be in a taxi cab. (Anyone who has walked on a Camino knows that for many it's a badge of shame to be caught travelling in anything with motor, we seem to be very judgmental, we pilgrims). He quickly explained that he had started walking, gotten lost in the suburbs of Salamanca and decided that he had already lost an hour and needed to get on the road. And he just wanted to make sure that I didn't think he was a "cheater" or somehow less holy than I. We walked together for a few kms on the highway and then realized that while we had been talking we had likely missed the turn-off. Our choices were threefold: continue on the highway shoulder till the next town (UGH); backtrack to the turn-off (NEVER); or head westward confident that we would somehow intersect with the Camino. We took option three, and it only took us about 35 minutes trudging through wet grasses up to our waist, lots of mud (Salamanca had a 90 minute downpour last night), and occasional steep slides down hills till we made it to the Camino. Or almost to the Camino, because what separated us was a large very steep arroyo (water filled gulley). Many heroic jumps and splashes later, and finally we were on the Camino. We made it to Calzada de Valdunciel around noon, and here I stay, in the little 8 bed albergue that looks like Hansel and Gretel's house. There are three of us and we are quite comfortable.
So, the lost and found. Since I am now about halfway there, I thought I'd take stock on what I had lost and found on the Camino. Since I am not a very deep thinker, this did not involve metaphysical musings about happiness or priorities or life's great decisions. No, it involved thinking about what I had lost and what I had found. And here's the tally:
LOST (and never found): one little bottle of eye drops; my bandana; one little hotel tube of conditioner.
LOST (and found again): my sunglasses (found by another peregrino along the way); my journal (left in a restaurant and later retrieved); and my totally filled fanny pack (left by the hotel internet machine).
So I have lost six things, found three of them, and I'd say that someone is looking out for me.
At the moment I hit the edge of town, up pulled a cab and out popped a "new" pilgrim (new to me, anyway). I said Hola buenos días, he looked at me sheepishly and I continued on. A few roundabouts down the road, as I was looking for the arrows, he caught up with me and we had a more formal greeting. The first words out of his mouth were not his name, hello, how are you or anything like that but rather an explanation of how he happened to be in a taxi cab. (Anyone who has walked on a Camino knows that for many it's a badge of shame to be caught travelling in anything with motor, we seem to be very judgmental, we pilgrims). He quickly explained that he had started walking, gotten lost in the suburbs of Salamanca and decided that he had already lost an hour and needed to get on the road. And he just wanted to make sure that I didn't think he was a "cheater" or somehow less holy than I. We walked together for a few kms on the highway and then realized that while we had been talking we had likely missed the turn-off. Our choices were threefold: continue on the highway shoulder till the next town (UGH); backtrack to the turn-off (NEVER); or head westward confident that we would somehow intersect with the Camino. We took option three, and it only took us about 35 minutes trudging through wet grasses up to our waist, lots of mud (Salamanca had a 90 minute downpour last night), and occasional steep slides down hills till we made it to the Camino. Or almost to the Camino, because what separated us was a large very steep arroyo (water filled gulley). Many heroic jumps and splashes later, and finally we were on the Camino. We made it to Calzada de Valdunciel around noon, and here I stay, in the little 8 bed albergue that looks like Hansel and Gretel's house. There are three of us and we are quite comfortable.
So, the lost and found. Since I am now about halfway there, I thought I'd take stock on what I had lost and found on the Camino. Since I am not a very deep thinker, this did not involve metaphysical musings about happiness or priorities or life's great decisions. No, it involved thinking about what I had lost and what I had found. And here's the tally:
LOST (and never found): one little bottle of eye drops; my bandana; one little hotel tube of conditioner.
LOST (and found again): my sunglasses (found by another peregrino along the way); my journal (left in a restaurant and later retrieved); and my totally filled fanny pack (left by the hotel internet machine).
So I have lost six things, found three of them, and I'd say that someone is looking out for me.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
From peregrina to tourist in sunny Salamanca
Last night as I was suffering with allergies in every part of my body from the chest upwards, I decided that my second night in Salamanca would not be in the pilgrims' albergue. It's a very nice place, don't get me wrong, in a beautiful old building right next to the Cathedral, nicely restored, nice common rooms, two sleeping rooms with 4 bunks each, clean bathrooms -- in short, the perfect albergue. But with the encouragement of my pal Werner (an Austrian history teacher), I checked at the four-star hotel right next door and found they had a room with my name on it for 65€, so I splurged. I "moved in" this morning right after breakfast and after the very fine ritual high mass in the old Cathedral, a late romanesque affair that gives you something to look at when your mind drifts from the service itself. I have been able to wash and dry all my clothes (these quick dry hiking clothes dry in less than a half hour in the hot Salamanca sun). Since I've been on the 5 day washing cycle, the cleaning was much needed. I'll be here till 7 am tomorrow, with a wake up call and coffee in the hotel before I hit the road.
Salamanca is really a beautiful city -- yesterday must have been graduation of some sort because there were chic young people parading all around with their families. I also saw 4 wedding parties, lots of First Communions, lots and lots of people out in the streets.
I've been running into almost everyone I've met so far on the Camino. Salamanca is kind of a "bunching up" place -- some people stay here several days, some have taken the bus ahead to get here early and spend some time, and that means that any trip to the Plaza Mayor will inevitably mean I'll see at least a couple of friendly faces. Everyone says the same thing -- how weird it feels to be "just" a tourist, no backpack on your back. And after all the solitude out there on the walk, being in such a bustling place can be a bit overwhelming.
Last night on the way back to the albergue, I went for a quick detour into the Plaza Mayor. It was about 10:30 at night, but you could still see that pure dark blue of the Castilian sky in the moonlight. The plaza was all lit up and filled with everyday Spanish people of all ages. There were still lots of kids running around and babies being held, grandmas and grandpas, tourists and college students. The square itself is just incredible, if you have never seen it, you should try to get here. And the city is one of those that immediately grabs you as a place you'd like to spend some time.
So, off to say a few farewells to people who are leaving the Camino here, and to enjoy some more strolling around. But no boots till tomorrow morning.
Salamanca is really a beautiful city -- yesterday must have been graduation of some sort because there were chic young people parading all around with their families. I also saw 4 wedding parties, lots of First Communions, lots and lots of people out in the streets.
I've been running into almost everyone I've met so far on the Camino. Salamanca is kind of a "bunching up" place -- some people stay here several days, some have taken the bus ahead to get here early and spend some time, and that means that any trip to the Plaza Mayor will inevitably mean I'll see at least a couple of friendly faces. Everyone says the same thing -- how weird it feels to be "just" a tourist, no backpack on your back. And after all the solitude out there on the walk, being in such a bustling place can be a bit overwhelming.
Last night on the way back to the albergue, I went for a quick detour into the Plaza Mayor. It was about 10:30 at night, but you could still see that pure dark blue of the Castilian sky in the moonlight. The plaza was all lit up and filled with everyday Spanish people of all ages. There were still lots of kids running around and babies being held, grandmas and grandpas, tourists and college students. The square itself is just incredible, if you have never seen it, you should try to get here. And the city is one of those that immediately grabs you as a place you'd like to spend some time.
So, off to say a few farewells to people who are leaving the Camino here, and to enjoy some more strolling around. But no boots till tomorrow morning.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Hot, sunny, long endless roads -- and the allergies come at no extra charge!
I have arrived in Salamanca, one of the most beautiful cities in Spain, in my humble opinion. The last few days have been through extremely large tracts of land, occasionally with cows sitting on the camino, lots of wildflowers, snow covered mountains, it has been beautiful. Small isolated towns with a hundred inhabitants or so, all of whom are bewildered by the presence of all these pilgrims, but in general very helpful and eager to talk to us.
Yesterday´s walk had the first significant ascent, which led to a beautiful view at the summit, but then at the end, we had about 4 km at the end of just straight slog -- hot, sunny, no shade, walking past bull pastures. People have different strategies for dealing with this kind of camino. Some just put their head down and forge ahead (that's me), but others play games with themselves or imagine things or try to recount something from memory. In any case, no matter what the strategy, we all arrived in San Pedro de Rozados totally wiped out. I got there at about 2:30, having left the albergue in Fuenterroble at the very decadent hour of 8:00 am, and I resolved that from now on I would be up and on the way by no later than 7:00.
But the best laid plans.... Last night the owner of the hostal where I was staying assured me that she would be up and making coffee for us at 7:00. Well, 7 came and went, and I couldn't leave because I had clothes hanging out to dry inside her bar (she did a wash for me). At about 7:40, she showed up, and then told me that it would take a while -- "un ratito" is a very unspecific amount of time -- for the coffee machine to warm up. So I took off without breakfast and am still paying the price of not having had any caffeine all day.
With another late start, I had some hot hours making my way into Salamanca, where it's graduation weekend and there is no room at the inn anywhere in town. We found a youth hostel that would take a group of 4 peregrinos (a Spanish man and his 32 year old daughter, an Austrian guy, and me).
Yesterday´s walk had the first significant ascent, which led to a beautiful view at the summit, but then at the end, we had about 4 km at the end of just straight slog -- hot, sunny, no shade, walking past bull pastures. People have different strategies for dealing with this kind of camino. Some just put their head down and forge ahead (that's me), but others play games with themselves or imagine things or try to recount something from memory. In any case, no matter what the strategy, we all arrived in San Pedro de Rozados totally wiped out. I got there at about 2:30, having left the albergue in Fuenterroble at the very decadent hour of 8:00 am, and I resolved that from now on I would be up and on the way by no later than 7:00.
But the best laid plans.... Last night the owner of the hostal where I was staying assured me that she would be up and making coffee for us at 7:00. Well, 7 came and went, and I couldn't leave because I had clothes hanging out to dry inside her bar (she did a wash for me). At about 7:40, she showed up, and then told me that it would take a while -- "un ratito" is a very unspecific amount of time -- for the coffee machine to warm up. So I took off without breakfast and am still paying the price of not having had any caffeine all day.
With another late start, I had some hot hours making my way into Salamanca, where it's graduation weekend and there is no room at the inn anywhere in town. We found a youth hostel that would take a group of 4 peregrinos (a Spanish man and his 32 year old daughter, an Austrian guy, and me).
My allergies are getting pretty bad -- I had the foresight to bring along the leftover medicines I got in Portugal last year when I had bad allergies on the Via de la Plata. About two days ago, in the town called Fuenterroble de Salvatierra (unknown to anyone outside Via de la Plata circles) the pharmacist drove 35 km to pick the same medicines up for me and brought them back to me in the albergue. So I am well medicated but suffering -- mainly chest and nose, my eyes seem to be ok.
A free day in Salamanca, don't know what I'll do with myself. It was kind of a shock to enter the tourist world, it makes us realize how totally remote our camino has been. One priority will be to try to stay cool, because the temperatures are rising. And 85 degrees sitting in the shade or walking back and forth to your car is a lot different than 85 degrees walking for hours with 20 pounds on your back. But I am not complaining because this is spectacular.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
In Baños de Montemayor
I am almost out of Extremadura and soon to enter Castilla y León. The landscape is changing, today I was walking closer and closer to snow covered mountains and am now in a town filled with half-timbered houses, plazas with porticoes and overhanging houses, it's all very pretty.
The weather is getting warmer, but we have been spared real heat, thankfully. I think it was probably in the mid 80s when I finally trudged into my town today. Yesterday, I was in a tiny town with nothing, absolutely nothing, just 9 children (they keep the school open till it drops below three), one bar, a pharmacy and grocery store (neither one opened when I was there). So today after 26 km, when I walked into another one of those towns, I decided to slog on another 10 to make it to this much bigger place. It's really pretty, I'm very glad I did. And now, if I play my cards right and manage to do another long day or two, I will get to Salamanca a day early and can take a rest day there! I love Salamanca, so even though it will be a Sunday, it would be a very nice reward for several long days.
A lot of the people I have been walking with are finishing their walks in Salamanca, so there will undoubtedly be lots of new people to take there place. Last night in the small albergue, there was a young Spanish couple on bicycles. They told me they felt like they were traveling abroad, because no one they had met could speak any Spanish. Not that they minded, but it is pretty strange when in an albergue of 17 people there are 7 Danes, 3 Dutch, 4 Germans, me and this couple!
I have walked through more wildflowers in these last few days than I ever dreamed existed in the universe. Although there were some curve balls on the trail today (due to the construction of the new super highway), I managed to only half fall into a stream and to only get lost once. But luckily there are always people who appear at the moment when you think you're really in trouble.
Tomorrow there's an ascent of some significance, really the first one I´ve had up till now. Hope I haven't forgotten how to go up hills!
The weather is getting warmer, but we have been spared real heat, thankfully. I think it was probably in the mid 80s when I finally trudged into my town today. Yesterday, I was in a tiny town with nothing, absolutely nothing, just 9 children (they keep the school open till it drops below three), one bar, a pharmacy and grocery store (neither one opened when I was there). So today after 26 km, when I walked into another one of those towns, I decided to slog on another 10 to make it to this much bigger place. It's really pretty, I'm very glad I did. And now, if I play my cards right and manage to do another long day or two, I will get to Salamanca a day early and can take a rest day there! I love Salamanca, so even though it will be a Sunday, it would be a very nice reward for several long days.
A lot of the people I have been walking with are finishing their walks in Salamanca, so there will undoubtedly be lots of new people to take there place. Last night in the small albergue, there was a young Spanish couple on bicycles. They told me they felt like they were traveling abroad, because no one they had met could speak any Spanish. Not that they minded, but it is pretty strange when in an albergue of 17 people there are 7 Danes, 3 Dutch, 4 Germans, me and this couple!
I have walked through more wildflowers in these last few days than I ever dreamed existed in the universe. Although there were some curve balls on the trail today (due to the construction of the new super highway), I managed to only half fall into a stream and to only get lost once. But luckily there are always people who appear at the moment when you think you're really in trouble.
Tomorrow there's an ascent of some significance, really the first one I´ve had up till now. Hope I haven't forgotten how to go up hills!
Monday, May 17, 2010
Living it up in Carcaboso
Call me extravagant, but today I walked only 11 km (all on asphalt, though, which is hard on the old tootsies) and then checked into a hostal where a private room with bath, and a bed with crisp white ironed sheets were waiting for me, all for 20€. Now I could have gone and slept on the floor of the polideportivo (sports complex) for 5€, and I could have shared a room and bathroom in a private albergue with four other peregrinos for 10€, but I splurged for the high life.
There have been some very good days and some highway asphalt (mainly around a huge reservoir that has dammed up the Tajo River). Yesterday was the best of the last few -- a 28 km walk through meadows of wild flowers with snow capped mountains in the distance (must have been the Gredos range, where our family spent last Christmas). Though I didn't think I was in Switzerland, it was very very pretty. And I found a huge boulder perfectly carved into a chair for me, even with a ledge for my yoghurt and fruit!
The crowds are increasing. I now have company every night at dinner, nearly all of it German speaking (I would say there are about 15 who are either Austrian, Flemish, or German) with one lonely Spaniard who speaks nothing but Spanish, an Italian who makes himself understood with bits and pieces of different languages, and a French couple who also speak some Spanish. So that makes post-walking time a lot more interesting. As far as walking goes, though, I'm in the habit of just starting off on my own and either running into people or not as the case may be. Lots of time to just enjoy the surroundings.
Weather is still beautiful, I feel very lucky. Less than a week to Salamanca.
There have been some very good days and some highway asphalt (mainly around a huge reservoir that has dammed up the Tajo River). Yesterday was the best of the last few -- a 28 km walk through meadows of wild flowers with snow capped mountains in the distance (must have been the Gredos range, where our family spent last Christmas). Though I didn't think I was in Switzerland, it was very very pretty. And I found a huge boulder perfectly carved into a chair for me, even with a ledge for my yoghurt and fruit!
The crowds are increasing. I now have company every night at dinner, nearly all of it German speaking (I would say there are about 15 who are either Austrian, Flemish, or German) with one lonely Spaniard who speaks nothing but Spanish, an Italian who makes himself understood with bits and pieces of different languages, and a French couple who also speak some Spanish. So that makes post-walking time a lot more interesting. As far as walking goes, though, I'm in the habit of just starting off on my own and either running into people or not as the case may be. Lots of time to just enjoy the surroundings.
Weather is still beautiful, I feel very lucky. Less than a week to Salamanca.
Friday, May 14, 2010
In the beautiful town of Cáceres
Leaving Alcuéscar yesterday, I had the intention to walk 26 km to Valdesalor, a small town about 12 km outside Cáceres. The weather was cool, with sun and clouds, and the camino went over several amazing Roman bridges. It was apparently "purple flower day" on the Vía de la Plata, because there were blankets of purple in almost every direction. There we were walking on the old Roman road, sandwiched between the national highway N-630 and the superhighway A-66, but there were lots of times when the road took us out of earshot of the hum of traffic.
When I pulled into Valdesalor at around 12:30 in the morning, having made very good time, the following facts presented themselves:
1. Valdesalor is an ugly town, in fact it´s not really a town at all. It was created by the state in the 1960s as part of a "get rural people out of isolation" movement. As a result this is essentially a large apartment complex.
2. The albergue has no beds, just mats on the floor.
3. It is cold, and there would be no blankets in the albergue, and all I have is a lightweight sleeping bag.
4. There is nothing to do in Valdesalor.
5. The really big snorer was planning to stay in Valdesalor.
So, after an hour´s rest, with lots of ice on the feet and shins, I took off for Cáceres, on what is probably the longest day´s walk I've done on any Camino, totalling 38 or 39 kms. I was fully intending to treat myself by spending the night at the parador. But by 4 pm, I was checked into the two star rustic hotel Don Carlos. The parador is undergoing extensive renovations and is closed. The Don Carlos was the first I ran into that looked nice. So I saved the family at least 85 euros, I figure.
Having the whole evening in Cáceres was very nice and relaxing. Its historic core, mainly dating from the XIV-XVI century with lots of Moorish remnants, is just stunning. And at night, it´s even more so. The other advantage of having made that long slog yesterday is that today I only have 11 kms to walk to Casar de Cáceres, a nearby town whose fame is a runny sheep cheese.
The weather has been wonderful, this morning it is downright chilly, with a bright sun. Great walking weather, I have absolutely no complaints. And, unlike last year when I arrived in Cáceres, my feet are FINE!
When I pulled into Valdesalor at around 12:30 in the morning, having made very good time, the following facts presented themselves:
1. Valdesalor is an ugly town, in fact it´s not really a town at all. It was created by the state in the 1960s as part of a "get rural people out of isolation" movement. As a result this is essentially a large apartment complex.
2. The albergue has no beds, just mats on the floor.
3. It is cold, and there would be no blankets in the albergue, and all I have is a lightweight sleeping bag.
4. There is nothing to do in Valdesalor.
5. The really big snorer was planning to stay in Valdesalor.
So, after an hour´s rest, with lots of ice on the feet and shins, I took off for Cáceres, on what is probably the longest day´s walk I've done on any Camino, totalling 38 or 39 kms. I was fully intending to treat myself by spending the night at the parador. But by 4 pm, I was checked into the two star rustic hotel Don Carlos. The parador is undergoing extensive renovations and is closed. The Don Carlos was the first I ran into that looked nice. So I saved the family at least 85 euros, I figure.
Having the whole evening in Cáceres was very nice and relaxing. Its historic core, mainly dating from the XIV-XVI century with lots of Moorish remnants, is just stunning. And at night, it´s even more so. The other advantage of having made that long slog yesterday is that today I only have 11 kms to walk to Casar de Cáceres, a nearby town whose fame is a runny sheep cheese.
The weather has been wonderful, this morning it is downright chilly, with a bright sun. Great walking weather, I have absolutely no complaints. And, unlike last year when I arrived in Cáceres, my feet are FINE!
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Getting Off the Beaten Path
I know that you probably think that I already AM off the beaten path, but there are lots of lovely things just a hop skip and a jump away from this narrow road that takes us from Sevilla to Santiago. This afternoon, I was able to take the time to walk out the 4 km from Alcuescar to visit a Seventh century, yes that's the number 7, church that's out in a field surrounded by daisies and waiting for visitors. Rather than spend the afternoon eating a big meal in the restaurant that I really enjoyed last year, I bought some yoghurt and an orange and took the street named after the Chestnut Fountain (Fuente del Castaño) and just kept walking on that road till I reached the church.
By then it was 3:15, I had 45 minutes to eat my lunch, take off my boots, and just rest and contemplate the universe. Promptly at 4:00, the woman in charge came and opened up both the church and the visitors' center, all for me. The church is, as these 7th century visigothic churches go, unusual for its three apses. I'm no expert, but I thought it was stunning. Just sitting there and looking around and looking at the arches inside, well it sort of takes your breath away. Mine at least.
And as an added bonus, it was a very nice country walk, through the same old cork and olive tree groves, again in total solitude and with the sky changing from sunny to cloudy to threatening dark clouds every few minutes. But not a drop of rain fell.
The albergue where I am tonight is in a Convent, and we will have a communal dinner at 8 pm. Tomorrow will get me close to Cáceres. I'm thinking I'll stop in the town where the albergue is located in the mayor's office. When he goes home, he just puts a bunch of pads on the floor for us to plunk our sleeping bags on and lets the pilgrims hang their drying clothes outside where the flag of Spain announces the building's official function.
I now know that Gordon Brown is out, the King of Spain does not have cancer, and that Obama called Zapatero to lecture him about the need to take strong measures to combat the crisis. That's what a few minutes in a café with a copy of El País will do for you.
By then it was 3:15, I had 45 minutes to eat my lunch, take off my boots, and just rest and contemplate the universe. Promptly at 4:00, the woman in charge came and opened up both the church and the visitors' center, all for me. The church is, as these 7th century visigothic churches go, unusual for its three apses. I'm no expert, but I thought it was stunning. Just sitting there and looking around and looking at the arches inside, well it sort of takes your breath away. Mine at least.
And as an added bonus, it was a very nice country walk, through the same old cork and olive tree groves, again in total solitude and with the sky changing from sunny to cloudy to threatening dark clouds every few minutes. But not a drop of rain fell.
The albergue where I am tonight is in a Convent, and we will have a communal dinner at 8 pm. Tomorrow will get me close to Cáceres. I'm thinking I'll stop in the town where the albergue is located in the mayor's office. When he goes home, he just puts a bunch of pads on the floor for us to plunk our sleeping bags on and lets the pilgrims hang their drying clothes outside where the flag of Spain announces the building's official function.
I now know that Gordon Brown is out, the King of Spain does not have cancer, and that Obama called Zapatero to lecture him about the need to take strong measures to combat the crisis. That's what a few minutes in a café with a copy of El País will do for you.
Making a Buck or Two off the Pilgrims
For some reason, I spent a lot of this morning's walk thinking about the pilgrim trade and what it means for these towns in Spain. Pilgrims occasionally gripe about how they are the subject of scams, high prices, unequal treatment, etc. One that's particularly amusing is the story of the old lady on the Camino Frances, who could have been sent from Central Casting in Madrid -- a Galician peasant woman, through and through. She has the right kerchief, apron, threadbare sweater, etc. She frequently emerges from her little stone house with a plate of pancakes she has just made and sweetly encourages walkers to try one. She then becomes a little less sweet and a little more aggressive, demanding a euro. I saw that woman in 2000 and hear that she is still in business. With the amount of pilgrims walking by, maybe she has retired and moved to the Canaries and turned her business over to someone else who also looks the part.
Sometimes, the treatment is a little less endearing -- we get less strong coffee, charged more for a beer, not treated to the minimum standards of customer service. (Now pilgrims do their fair share of bad things, too, like not giving a donation for the albergues that don't charge, taking all the bar's toilet paper, etc, etc, but that's another story).
Well, yesterday in Aljucén (population maybe 150), the options for dinner were threefold. Make your own (from the scant supplies bought in the tobacco shop turned grocery), go to the Bar Kiosko and have a sandwich, or go to the Bar Café Sergio for a meal. Several of us walked down to the Sergio and out came the owner -- a woman probably not much older than I, hunched over and walking with a cane, bad teeth, looking not very snazzy. She explained that our meal would be excellent, that the staff of the Ayuntamiento (town hall) frequently came to eat there and were always very happy with their meals (yeah, right), and that there would be a basket of fruit at the end of the meal (maybe she had heard from the shop owner that several of us were particularly sad that there were no fresh fruits or vegetables for sale anywhere in town). Price was 12€.
About 7 of us signed up, and at the appointed hour of 8 pm, walked down to eat. This meal was bad, in fact "bad" is an understatement. First course was chicken noodle soup out of an envelope. Then came the tortilla francesa (that's an omlet with only eggs) that was rubbery almost inedible (hard to do that to two eggs), and the high point of the meal, a salad with good tomatoes, fresh lettuce, onions, etc. We each had an apple and an orange for dessert. I ate the apple, well past its prime, and saved the orange for my walk. Even the wine was undrinkable -- the Australian gent wound up drinking most of it.
Back in the albergue, an animated conversation ensued. There were the Germans and I, regretting having gone there, then the Australian who said it was the best meal he had had since Australia (we wondered if maybe we should have had some of the wine ourselves if it had this transformative power), there were two from Bilbao who just sort of grumbled a bit. Didn't seem to be anyone who had anything positive to say about the price-quality ratio. Then, a guy from Sevilla interjected -- pero, hombre (he said this twice for emphasis and in the way only Spaniards can say it, with a throaty growl between the pero and the hombre) -- ¿De qué van a vivir si no es de nosotros? (What will they live off of if not us?). Good point, I thought.
And p.s., the orange was delicious, I ate it in a field of cork trees on a big rock, watching the cows graze.
Sometimes, the treatment is a little less endearing -- we get less strong coffee, charged more for a beer, not treated to the minimum standards of customer service. (Now pilgrims do their fair share of bad things, too, like not giving a donation for the albergues that don't charge, taking all the bar's toilet paper, etc, etc, but that's another story).
Well, yesterday in Aljucén (population maybe 150), the options for dinner were threefold. Make your own (from the scant supplies bought in the tobacco shop turned grocery), go to the Bar Kiosko and have a sandwich, or go to the Bar Café Sergio for a meal. Several of us walked down to the Sergio and out came the owner -- a woman probably not much older than I, hunched over and walking with a cane, bad teeth, looking not very snazzy. She explained that our meal would be excellent, that the staff of the Ayuntamiento (town hall) frequently came to eat there and were always very happy with their meals (yeah, right), and that there would be a basket of fruit at the end of the meal (maybe she had heard from the shop owner that several of us were particularly sad that there were no fresh fruits or vegetables for sale anywhere in town). Price was 12€.
About 7 of us signed up, and at the appointed hour of 8 pm, walked down to eat. This meal was bad, in fact "bad" is an understatement. First course was chicken noodle soup out of an envelope. Then came the tortilla francesa (that's an omlet with only eggs) that was rubbery almost inedible (hard to do that to two eggs), and the high point of the meal, a salad with good tomatoes, fresh lettuce, onions, etc. We each had an apple and an orange for dessert. I ate the apple, well past its prime, and saved the orange for my walk. Even the wine was undrinkable -- the Australian gent wound up drinking most of it.
Back in the albergue, an animated conversation ensued. There were the Germans and I, regretting having gone there, then the Australian who said it was the best meal he had had since Australia (we wondered if maybe we should have had some of the wine ourselves if it had this transformative power), there were two from Bilbao who just sort of grumbled a bit. Didn't seem to be anyone who had anything positive to say about the price-quality ratio. Then, a guy from Sevilla interjected -- pero, hombre (he said this twice for emphasis and in the way only Spaniards can say it, with a throaty growl between the pero and the hombre) -- ¿De qué van a vivir si no es de nosotros? (What will they live off of if not us?). Good point, I thought.
And p.s., the orange was delicious, I ate it in a field of cork trees on a big rock, watching the cows graze.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Be Careful What you Wish For
Today, about 18 km outside of Mérida, I am ensconced in a small albergue with 14 beds. All are full. I'm sharing a small room with a German couple I've met several times, but the rest are all new -- a 70-something Australian with a hearing aid and an inability to keep his loud annoying laugh under control; a 20-something German who smokes a lot; 7 Spaniards from various parts of the country, with the Andaluces trying to impress the more haughty Basques from Bilbao (another three Captains of Industry, Dana!); and a silent Irish-Belgian couple. Not exactly the group I would have hoped for.
But the scenery was beautiful -- I first went past the huge reservoir Proserpina that the Romans had build 5 miles outside Mérida, and then built an enormous aqueduct to carry the water back to town. Only parts of the aqueduct are standing, but it is quite a sight. Those Romans were pretty smart, at least at some things. The rest of the walk was through endless fields of cork, huge boulders, and wild flowers. There are several new flowers in the repertoire now, with some little pretty pink ones that have become my new favorite.
I could have gone further today but decided to cut it short, so that I would have another short day, which in turn would allow me to take a 7 or 8 km detour to visit a 7th century Visigothic church, Santa Lucía del Trampal. I a sucker for those beautiful old buildings, especially when there are capitals in good condition.
Since I am occupying one of four computers in a weird internet room in the "Retired People´s Place", where all the users are under 18 and there are no retired people in site, I think I should move away from the guy coughing his brains out next to me.
Dinner tonight promises to be totally uninspiring -- the choices are eggs with chorizo or eggs with ham. There was no fresh food of any kind to buy in the small grocery store. The man in the store told me that the fruits and vegetables only came in on Tuesday, but then I later realized that today IS Tuesday (at least I think it is!)
But the scenery was beautiful -- I first went past the huge reservoir Proserpina that the Romans had build 5 miles outside Mérida, and then built an enormous aqueduct to carry the water back to town. Only parts of the aqueduct are standing, but it is quite a sight. Those Romans were pretty smart, at least at some things. The rest of the walk was through endless fields of cork, huge boulders, and wild flowers. There are several new flowers in the repertoire now, with some little pretty pink ones that have become my new favorite.
I could have gone further today but decided to cut it short, so that I would have another short day, which in turn would allow me to take a 7 or 8 km detour to visit a 7th century Visigothic church, Santa Lucía del Trampal. I a sucker for those beautiful old buildings, especially when there are capitals in good condition.
Since I am occupying one of four computers in a weird internet room in the "Retired People´s Place", where all the users are under 18 and there are no retired people in site, I think I should move away from the guy coughing his brains out next to me.
Dinner tonight promises to be totally uninspiring -- the choices are eggs with chorizo or eggs with ham. There was no fresh food of any kind to buy in the small grocery store. The man in the store told me that the fruits and vegetables only came in on Tuesday, but then I later realized that today IS Tuesday (at least I think it is!)
Monday, May 10, 2010
In Merida
Merida is the town with more Roman ruins than any other outside of Italy, or at least that's what they say here. It's wonderful to walk around the city, the theater is just spectacular, the bridge is more than 1/2 mile long, 60 arches, all Roman. There are many little temples and arches and acqueduct parts around every corner, it seems. Pretty incredible, I would say.
The last two days have been like previous ones, through vineyards, but with a twist -- these were vineyards with wet earth. This wasn't your normal black dirt mud, this was bright red clay and I have never walked through anything like it. There was just no point in stopping to hit the stuff off the boot since it just started to glom right back on. So I just kept walking, and usually when the clay was 3-4" thick, it would fall off and then start accumulating again. It was pretty good exercise for the calf muscle, I think.
Business on the Via de la Plata is cutthroat. Walking into our destination town yesterday, a little girl on a bike came and told us, don't go to the hotel, go to the albergue, because the hotel is dirty and expensive. Well, I remembered that last year we stayed at the albergue and were none too pleased, so we went to the hotel anyway. Turns out that this modest hotel has private rooms with bath for the same price as the communal rooms in the albergue. And, if you can believe this, the little girl telling people to avoid the hotel is the daughter of the albergue owners and has apparently been instructed to do this. How could a parent teach her kids to engage in behavior like that? Shameful. I guess that's unrestrained capitalism for you.
I've been walking with two Austrians on and off for a few days, but tomorrow we go our separate ways. The father in law stays here for a day, the son in law goes 38 kms, and I will stop after about 20. Of my many Caminos, this is the most deserted I've ever seen, there is really no one out there. But I suppose that some start in Merida, others in Caceres, others in Salamanca, so I expect there will be some more walkers soon. I don't mind walking alone, but companionship is nice once in a while!
The last two days have been like previous ones, through vineyards, but with a twist -- these were vineyards with wet earth. This wasn't your normal black dirt mud, this was bright red clay and I have never walked through anything like it. There was just no point in stopping to hit the stuff off the boot since it just started to glom right back on. So I just kept walking, and usually when the clay was 3-4" thick, it would fall off and then start accumulating again. It was pretty good exercise for the calf muscle, I think.
Business on the Via de la Plata is cutthroat. Walking into our destination town yesterday, a little girl on a bike came and told us, don't go to the hotel, go to the albergue, because the hotel is dirty and expensive. Well, I remembered that last year we stayed at the albergue and were none too pleased, so we went to the hotel anyway. Turns out that this modest hotel has private rooms with bath for the same price as the communal rooms in the albergue. And, if you can believe this, the little girl telling people to avoid the hotel is the daughter of the albergue owners and has apparently been instructed to do this. How could a parent teach her kids to engage in behavior like that? Shameful. I guess that's unrestrained capitalism for you.
I've been walking with two Austrians on and off for a few days, but tomorrow we go our separate ways. The father in law stays here for a day, the son in law goes 38 kms, and I will stop after about 20. Of my many Caminos, this is the most deserted I've ever seen, there is really no one out there. But I suppose that some start in Merida, others in Caceres, others in Salamanca, so I expect there will be some more walkers soon. I don't mind walking alone, but companionship is nice once in a while!
Saturday, May 8, 2010
In Villafranca de los Barros
One of the patterns of walking Caminos is that the entrance into and the exit from cities is never very attractive. Sometimes it's industrial, and there's a long slog past factories with a lot of truck traffic; other times it's not built up, and you stay on dirt paths, but you will usually go by the town dump or its sewage plant or sometimes its cemetery. Zafra, the town I left this morning, had one of each -- the way in was through a long rail yard, past an abandoned train station, and along a busy commercial stretch. The way out was the opposite -- I was on dirt tracks in 5 minutes, and then, sure enough, the sewage plant came into view. But I have to think it's one of a very few sewage plants in the world to have crennellated towers. I had almost been lulled into thinking I was going to pass a castle, but the odor let me know otherwise.
The sky was not sunny, but no rain fell, perfect walking weather for this 24 km stretch through agricultural fields. The terrain was unchanging -- vineyards, olive trees, sheep grazing, and a few fruit orchards. I have met an Austrian pair -- young man with his father-in-law. We are doing our best with Spanish and English, the usual Camino Babble. We are staying tonight in a little "casa rural" right on the Camino, the Casa Perin. http://www.amcoex.es/casaperin/ 18€ a night (special pilgrim price), with towels, clean sheets, a bowl full of fruit, and a kitchen for us to use. I remember having a fantastic meal here last year, so the three of us will head out to the Restaurante Monterrey!
In two more days I will be at the spot where my heel started to hurt. And once I get past that spot, I will banish all thoughts of heel pain from my head. So far so good, absolutely no pain, but it will be good to get past the place where I have such bad memories!
The sky was not sunny, but no rain fell, perfect walking weather for this 24 km stretch through agricultural fields. The terrain was unchanging -- vineyards, olive trees, sheep grazing, and a few fruit orchards. I have met an Austrian pair -- young man with his father-in-law. We are doing our best with Spanish and English, the usual Camino Babble. We are staying tonight in a little "casa rural" right on the Camino, the Casa Perin. http://www.amcoex.es/casaperin/ 18€ a night (special pilgrim price), with towels, clean sheets, a bowl full of fruit, and a kitchen for us to use. I remember having a fantastic meal here last year, so the three of us will head out to the Restaurante Monterrey!
In two more days I will be at the spot where my heel started to hurt. And once I get past that spot, I will banish all thoughts of heel pain from my head. So far so good, absolutely no pain, but it will be good to get past the place where I have such bad memories!
Friday, May 7, 2010
Zafra, the Little Sevilla
I will say this -- Zafra is a very pretty small city, but whoever decided to call it the Little Sevilla has probably never been to Sevilla. It has a castle, a few nice plazas, and some peaceful and flowering parks, some narrow streets of white houses oozing flowers over the balconies, but Sevilla it ain't.
Today was a 24 km day, went very smoothly and I FINALLY met a couple of people to walk with and talk to. I met two British men who came up to have a coffee at the same cafe about 7 km out of our first town. It was nice walking for several hours with them, but they stopped walking in Zafra, so I'm back to being on my own again.
Not one bit of pavement today, it was just great. The camino went through ag lands the whole way, and I saw my first vineyards (the wine has been pretty undrinkable so far, but I think it will improve as I get north). There were several more dicey water crossings, but one of the Brits was even less graceful stepping on stones and logs than I am, so it boosted my self confidence. The first trouble spot was a low point in the road, and the water was about 4 feet high. Two cyclists ahead of us had found a way to cross through the fields and motioned for us to come. Not only did they have to carry their heavily loaded bikes across these precarious logs one by one, they also waited and made sure we got safely across. And they waited for us at the second spot, too, having seen how old and feeble we were. :-) I'm happy to report that I didn't even need to grab onto them on the second crossing, just skipped right across the rocks myself, and then promptly stepped into the reeds and sank down about halfway up my shin. Ah well, grace is my middle name after all.
Notwithstanding my bad bed bug experience in Zafra last time, I decided to tempt fate and stay there. I have my own room and the woman assured me there were no problems at all. And the other few walkers I've met are all there, so it seemed like the only sensible thing to do. Not that I really have any interaction with them but it is nice to see other people on the road when you leave in the morning.
Well, rain is in the forecast, I'll have to dig my poncho out of the depths of my backpack.
I can't believe I've been walking for one week already. Dana joins me in three weeks! And then the pictures should magically appear on the blog.
Today was a 24 km day, went very smoothly and I FINALLY met a couple of people to walk with and talk to. I met two British men who came up to have a coffee at the same cafe about 7 km out of our first town. It was nice walking for several hours with them, but they stopped walking in Zafra, so I'm back to being on my own again.
Not one bit of pavement today, it was just great. The camino went through ag lands the whole way, and I saw my first vineyards (the wine has been pretty undrinkable so far, but I think it will improve as I get north). There were several more dicey water crossings, but one of the Brits was even less graceful stepping on stones and logs than I am, so it boosted my self confidence. The first trouble spot was a low point in the road, and the water was about 4 feet high. Two cyclists ahead of us had found a way to cross through the fields and motioned for us to come. Not only did they have to carry their heavily loaded bikes across these precarious logs one by one, they also waited and made sure we got safely across. And they waited for us at the second spot, too, having seen how old and feeble we were. :-) I'm happy to report that I didn't even need to grab onto them on the second crossing, just skipped right across the rocks myself, and then promptly stepped into the reeds and sank down about halfway up my shin. Ah well, grace is my middle name after all.
Notwithstanding my bad bed bug experience in Zafra last time, I decided to tempt fate and stay there. I have my own room and the woman assured me there were no problems at all. And the other few walkers I've met are all there, so it seemed like the only sensible thing to do. Not that I really have any interaction with them but it is nice to see other people on the road when you leave in the morning.
Well, rain is in the forecast, I'll have to dig my poncho out of the depths of my backpack.
I can't believe I've been walking for one week already. Dana joins me in three weeks! And then the pictures should magically appear on the blog.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
In Zuburán's birthplace
And if you don't know who Zuburán is, you should go look it up. Actually, he's not one of my favorite Spanish painters, but I think he has probably painted more saints, Christs, and Virgens than any other painter in the world. His home is open this afternoon, so at least I'll have some afternoon activity (and by afternoon, I mean 5-8 pm, this is Spain remember).
This was another one of those very peaceful (and solitary) walks - the first 10 km or so were through grazing lands, those low rock walls fencing off each family's parcel, with the main animals being goats and cows. For a while it was right next to a brook, and babbling is as good a term as any for what it was doing. Very green and quiet. Then, after about 1 1/2 hour walking, up on a crest, there was my destination in the distance. Well, it must have been about 11 or 12 km in the distance, so there it sat for hours getting slowly closer.
There was just one river/stream for me to cross today. No one would ever compare me to a mountain goat, so it was a bit dicey for me going across, balancing on rocks, trying to use my sticks, but I made it. And then, once on the other side, it seemed like a good place for a rest to soak the feet again. All very invigorating.
Yesterday in Monesterio I got to the church just as a funeral service was ending and First Communion practice was beginning. Some of the people attended both. The kids knew their lines but got all mixed up with which side of the altar, which row, etc they were supposed to be in. Luckily they have practice a couple more times before Saturday. This is really First Communion season. The priest told me he has walked the Camino three times, the Norte once, and the Via de la Plata a couple of times as well. He said he has made it a priority to get an albergue in Monesterio and he's working on putting in a ten bed albergue on the first floor of the house where he lives. I hope he doesn't regret that decision!
I´m in an albergue here, it's one run by the Junta de Extremadura (the government), and for a charge of 10€ you get clean, shocking white sheets, a room with two bunk beds that smells like Lysol, and a bathroom that doesn't have gunk everywhere. It´s great. There's even free internet right here in the nice parlor with several sofas and coffee tables. The next town is the place where I got bedbugs last year, so I will NOT be staying in the Zafra albergue. You can find me at the two star Hotel Cervantes instead (across the street from the 4-star parador, where I've stayed with Joe, Katy and David but think it would be over the top to stay there alone).
Lunch is recommended at Cafe Charo, we´ll see what that looks like. And two other people have arrived at the albergue, it would be nice to actually meet some people! The people in charge of this albergue told me that last night there were 35 people here. Today there are 7. I'm glad not to be in that wave of humanity, though it would be nice to meet some people.
This was another one of those very peaceful (and solitary) walks - the first 10 km or so were through grazing lands, those low rock walls fencing off each family's parcel, with the main animals being goats and cows. For a while it was right next to a brook, and babbling is as good a term as any for what it was doing. Very green and quiet. Then, after about 1 1/2 hour walking, up on a crest, there was my destination in the distance. Well, it must have been about 11 or 12 km in the distance, so there it sat for hours getting slowly closer.
There was just one river/stream for me to cross today. No one would ever compare me to a mountain goat, so it was a bit dicey for me going across, balancing on rocks, trying to use my sticks, but I made it. And then, once on the other side, it seemed like a good place for a rest to soak the feet again. All very invigorating.
Yesterday in Monesterio I got to the church just as a funeral service was ending and First Communion practice was beginning. Some of the people attended both. The kids knew their lines but got all mixed up with which side of the altar, which row, etc they were supposed to be in. Luckily they have practice a couple more times before Saturday. This is really First Communion season. The priest told me he has walked the Camino three times, the Norte once, and the Via de la Plata a couple of times as well. He said he has made it a priority to get an albergue in Monesterio and he's working on putting in a ten bed albergue on the first floor of the house where he lives. I hope he doesn't regret that decision!
I´m in an albergue here, it's one run by the Junta de Extremadura (the government), and for a charge of 10€ you get clean, shocking white sheets, a room with two bunk beds that smells like Lysol, and a bathroom that doesn't have gunk everywhere. It´s great. There's even free internet right here in the nice parlor with several sofas and coffee tables. The next town is the place where I got bedbugs last year, so I will NOT be staying in the Zafra albergue. You can find me at the two star Hotel Cervantes instead (across the street from the 4-star parador, where I've stayed with Joe, Katy and David but think it would be over the top to stay there alone).
Lunch is recommended at Cafe Charo, we´ll see what that looks like. And two other people have arrived at the albergue, it would be nice to actually meet some people! The people in charge of this albergue told me that last night there were 35 people here. Today there are 7. I'm glad not to be in that wave of humanity, though it would be nice to meet some people.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Spain's self-proclaimed Ham Capital
Here I am in the town called Monesterio, having left Andalucía and arrived in Extremadura. One big change for me is that I can understand the accent a lot better -- those andaluces talk a mile a minute.
Another day all alone, but I did have some human contact. I helped a young shepherd chase a little lamb. I'm not sure what I would have done if he had run towards me (the lamb, not the shepherd), but after about 10 minutes, the little frisky baby was back with the herd. Then I also got waves from two men with big earth moving equipment, trying to repair the rain damage. The first 12 kms were entirely on a dirt farm track, great for walking, at least now that the rains are done. The damage was pretty spectacular. I can't imagine it would have been much fun to walk through those tracks in wet weather -- I occasionally saw footprints that were at least four inches deep. I've done that kind of mud before and it's not fun. There were several streams to cross and I took advantage to soak my feet in the icy water. 10 minutes soak, five minutes air dry, and voilà, that's a real break.
The second half of the walk today was less idyllic -- I was on a very nice track (made of sand, gravel, and dirt, a pilgrim's dream surface) but sandwiched in between the superhighway A-66 on the right, and the national highway N-630 on the left. And there were lots of my least favorite trees, eucalyptus, but at least I had some shade.
The weather continues to be very nice -- I had my wool gloves on this morning till about 10 am. It feels like it may be warming up a bit, but I hope not too much! The last time I walked through here it was pouring rain and the only place to stay was a sad room over a sadder bar. This time I've moved up a bit, to the two star Hostal El Pilar. It is much cleaner and the bed doesn't sag, so I am thankful for those small things.
This town has a nice little plaza, and every other storefront is a ham-sausage-chorizo place. When I asked a waiter yesterday if it was true that Monesterio was the ham capital of Spain, he responded with a snort and assured me that that label belongs to some town in Huelva. Since I'm not a big jamón serrano fan (well, here it's jamón ibérico, which means, I think, that the pigs only ate acorns), but I suppose I'll have a few slices to see what all the fuss is about.
Coming up are big stretches of the Roman Road, some of it in very good shape. But those Romans must have had indestructible feet because the paving is really hard on mine.
Giving thanks for another nice day on the Via de la Plata, and now off to visit the Vdlp visitor's center, which looks like it has a couple of those Roman mile markers (milarios). I think Trajan and Hadrian both hail from these parts. And maybe one more.
Another day all alone, but I did have some human contact. I helped a young shepherd chase a little lamb. I'm not sure what I would have done if he had run towards me (the lamb, not the shepherd), but after about 10 minutes, the little frisky baby was back with the herd. Then I also got waves from two men with big earth moving equipment, trying to repair the rain damage. The first 12 kms were entirely on a dirt farm track, great for walking, at least now that the rains are done. The damage was pretty spectacular. I can't imagine it would have been much fun to walk through those tracks in wet weather -- I occasionally saw footprints that were at least four inches deep. I've done that kind of mud before and it's not fun. There were several streams to cross and I took advantage to soak my feet in the icy water. 10 minutes soak, five minutes air dry, and voilà, that's a real break.
The second half of the walk today was less idyllic -- I was on a very nice track (made of sand, gravel, and dirt, a pilgrim's dream surface) but sandwiched in between the superhighway A-66 on the right, and the national highway N-630 on the left. And there were lots of my least favorite trees, eucalyptus, but at least I had some shade.
The weather continues to be very nice -- I had my wool gloves on this morning till about 10 am. It feels like it may be warming up a bit, but I hope not too much! The last time I walked through here it was pouring rain and the only place to stay was a sad room over a sadder bar. This time I've moved up a bit, to the two star Hostal El Pilar. It is much cleaner and the bed doesn't sag, so I am thankful for those small things.
This town has a nice little plaza, and every other storefront is a ham-sausage-chorizo place. When I asked a waiter yesterday if it was true that Monesterio was the ham capital of Spain, he responded with a snort and assured me that that label belongs to some town in Huelva. Since I'm not a big jamón serrano fan (well, here it's jamón ibérico, which means, I think, that the pigs only ate acorns), but I suppose I'll have a few slices to see what all the fuss is about.
Coming up are big stretches of the Roman Road, some of it in very good shape. But those Romans must have had indestructible feet because the paving is really hard on mine.
Giving thanks for another nice day on the Via de la Plata, and now off to visit the Vdlp visitor's center, which looks like it has a couple of those Roman mile markers (milarios). I think Trajan and Hadrian both hail from these parts. And maybe one more.
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
In Real de la Jara
I just had the most beautiful 16 km (10 mile) walk that you could imagine. It was sort of like "old McDonald" land. From the time I left Almaden till I got here, I saw two farmers, about 25 chickens, maybe 100 goats (and babies) and hundreds and hundreds of pigs. The walk went from farm to farm, you had to open and close gates to go through the land, and it was very pastoral. The evidence of humongous spring rains is everywhere -- some of the ruts or gulleys are two or three feet deep, lots of erosion everywhere. But luckily, it's all gone now, there were only a couple of spots where I had to walk carefully across streams on rocks. The scenery is beautiful and very calm.
I've read about crowding on the Camino Frances and even here on the Via de la Plata. Well, here there are goups (one group of 14 French cyclists, a group of 6 Germans who sometimes walk, sometimes cycle, and have a huge van to carry their bikes and set up a folding picnic table for their meals), but in the four days I've been walking, I have crossed paths with only a couple of other walkers. I would enjoy some company, but as they say in Spanish, mejor sola que mal acompanada. And I realized how nice it was to have my eyes catch on a white blob on the ground, and then look to see that it was NOT toilet paper, but just fallen petals from the jara bushes.
There's a 14th century castle up on the top of the town, beautiful views all over the place. Tomorrow I will walk another short day, about 22 km, but then I'll get started on some longer walks.
I'm staying in a pension tonight -- I went to the albergue and learned that it didn't open till 4 pm. This pension is something else -- the woman's house looks like the inside of my backpack. There is stuff crammed everywhere, none of it belongs where it's stuffed, and I'm in a room with piles and piles of junk, a bathroom with cold showers, and a washing machine that doesn't work. But it's 10 euros a night so I can't complain.
Tomorrow there's no albergue either, and I have a reservation in another pension. But the day after that, I'll get back into the pilgrim swing of things!
Love to you all, L.
I've read about crowding on the Camino Frances and even here on the Via de la Plata. Well, here there are goups (one group of 14 French cyclists, a group of 6 Germans who sometimes walk, sometimes cycle, and have a huge van to carry their bikes and set up a folding picnic table for their meals), but in the four days I've been walking, I have crossed paths with only a couple of other walkers. I would enjoy some company, but as they say in Spanish, mejor sola que mal acompanada. And I realized how nice it was to have my eyes catch on a white blob on the ground, and then look to see that it was NOT toilet paper, but just fallen petals from the jara bushes.
There's a 14th century castle up on the top of the town, beautiful views all over the place. Tomorrow I will walk another short day, about 22 km, but then I'll get started on some longer walks.
I'm staying in a pension tonight -- I went to the albergue and learned that it didn't open till 4 pm. This pension is something else -- the woman's house looks like the inside of my backpack. There is stuff crammed everywhere, none of it belongs where it's stuffed, and I'm in a room with piles and piles of junk, a bathroom with cold showers, and a washing machine that doesn't work. But it's 10 euros a night so I can't complain.
Tomorrow there's no albergue either, and I have a reservation in another pension. But the day after that, I'll get back into the pilgrim swing of things!
Love to you all, L.
Monday, May 3, 2010
In Almaden de la Plata
I'm sitting in a little cultural center where there are eight computers. Seven of them are being used by people under 10, most of whom are playing crazy loud games. I have the eighth one.
So far so good. The last two days have been very nice, one short (16 km), but today long (29 km). I would have preferred two of 23, but I'm not in charge here. The wildflowers are just gorgeous, this path has gone through several huge estates with lots of cork, oak, and olive trees (this will change in a few days). This is bull-raising country, and though I haven't seen any yet, I have seen lots of the estates, all of which display their brand very prominently.
The weather has been very good. Today was chilly, in fact. There was a breeze, which sometimes whipped itself up into a "blow-your-hat-off" wind, but the cool air was very welcome. In fact, my water was chilled by the cold air, which made for nice water breaks.
The one thing that I don't have by not staying in the albergues is the pilgrim wake-up call. Every day at 6 or 6:30, the rustle of plastic bags spreads and wakes everyone up. Or sometimes the ruder among us set loud alarms for whatever time they desire, and then proceed to turn on all the lights while a few people curse them. I miss all that, but as a result today I slept till 7:15! I knew it was going to be a long day, and long days are so much easier with a start no later than 7 am. But I made it fine.
My feet feel fine, I am trying to be very careful. This afternoon, before on short steep ascent, I decided to sit with my feet in a stream for 15 minutes. The water was very cold, and I'm hoping it did good things to my heel. While I was sitting there, a bright yellow bird sat and half sang, half screeched the whole time. It was a beautiful bird, really bright canary yellow, but I am as good at bird identifications as I am at flower identifications.
Tomorrow I'm going to do a short day -- the choices are 16 km or 35 km. Last year I did the 35 km, this year I will be more prudent. The town is Real de la Jara, and there is a nice castle to climb to and a few little streets I haven't explored, so I will be able to fill up my time.
There are lots of Roman and moorish remnants here, in almost every little town. The town where I am today has several prehistoric mines, where some strange mineral was extracted. Unfortunately, there are no visits. So I will have to ice my feet some more.
So far so good. The last two days have been very nice, one short (16 km), but today long (29 km). I would have preferred two of 23, but I'm not in charge here. The wildflowers are just gorgeous, this path has gone through several huge estates with lots of cork, oak, and olive trees (this will change in a few days). This is bull-raising country, and though I haven't seen any yet, I have seen lots of the estates, all of which display their brand very prominently.
The weather has been very good. Today was chilly, in fact. There was a breeze, which sometimes whipped itself up into a "blow-your-hat-off" wind, but the cool air was very welcome. In fact, my water was chilled by the cold air, which made for nice water breaks.
The one thing that I don't have by not staying in the albergues is the pilgrim wake-up call. Every day at 6 or 6:30, the rustle of plastic bags spreads and wakes everyone up. Or sometimes the ruder among us set loud alarms for whatever time they desire, and then proceed to turn on all the lights while a few people curse them. I miss all that, but as a result today I slept till 7:15! I knew it was going to be a long day, and long days are so much easier with a start no later than 7 am. But I made it fine.
My feet feel fine, I am trying to be very careful. This afternoon, before on short steep ascent, I decided to sit with my feet in a stream for 15 minutes. The water was very cold, and I'm hoping it did good things to my heel. While I was sitting there, a bright yellow bird sat and half sang, half screeched the whole time. It was a beautiful bird, really bright canary yellow, but I am as good at bird identifications as I am at flower identifications.
Tomorrow I'm going to do a short day -- the choices are 16 km or 35 km. Last year I did the 35 km, this year I will be more prudent. The town is Real de la Jara, and there is a nice castle to climb to and a few little streets I haven't explored, so I will be able to fill up my time.
There are lots of Roman and moorish remnants here, in almost every little town. The town where I am today has several prehistoric mines, where some strange mineral was extracted. Unfortunately, there are no visits. So I will have to ice my feet some more.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Day 1 -- Sevilla to Guillena
It´s a beautiful, warm (but not too hot for walking) late spring day. The walk was very pretty, an easy 23 kms, at least once I got through the suburbs and the industrial park. Seems to be a pattern with entering and leaving cities, you have to put up with a lot of yuck before it gets nice.
Since today is a holiday, the Roman ruins at Italica were closed. Good thing I was able to visit them last time.
There has been a lot of rain here, months and months of it, and I had been warned about crossing the "arroyo" before Guillena. It was high last time, so I expected to have to swim this time. Last year I had shimmied across on a fallen tree and was afraid I was going to topple the whole way across. So this time I tried going off and into the bushes on the left, and lo and behold, there was a very manageable path!
I have met two other peregrinos on the way. The starting conversations are always the same, with the same questions -- where are you from? Where are you going? (depending on time of day, this could refer to your final destination or your destination of the day) and Is this your first Camino? (answer usually no on any camino but the Camino Frances). So far the tally is one German and one Spaniard, both going to Santiago, and not the first camino for either. One question that doesn´t make it onto the list, though, even though it´s usually one of the first things we Americans ask each other is -- What do you do? Maybe the reason people don´t ask it here is because in Spanish the question "¿que haces? can mean both What are you doing now? and What do you do? Or maybe it´s because over here people´s identity is not so closely connected to their professional lives as it is in the US (and as I say this I can hear Joe groaning and telling me to give up with the pop sociology). Or maybe it`s because the reason we´re all on this Camino is because we want to get away from our work life so why would we bring it up.
The albergue is full (14 beds) and when I stopped by it seemed to be filled with two big groups of Spaniards. So I´m in the Hostal Bar Frances, where room and breakfast is 23 euros. And it has sheets! And a clean bathroom! And clean towels! What more could I ask for? I´ve already heard about a big group of 14 French walkers who will be staying in the same Hostal I´m in. Walking on the same stages as such a big group puts a crunch in things, especially when there aren´t so many places to stay.
Well, I am off to walk around the little town -- there are many First Communions today and everyone is all dolled up. Kind of funny to see the 10 year old girls with floor length white dresses and their moms in mini skirts and high heels!
Happy Labor Day -- I think we are the only country in the industrialized world not to celebrate it on May 1. In the US, it´s Law Day, but then every day is Law Day in the US!
Since today is a holiday, the Roman ruins at Italica were closed. Good thing I was able to visit them last time.
There has been a lot of rain here, months and months of it, and I had been warned about crossing the "arroyo" before Guillena. It was high last time, so I expected to have to swim this time. Last year I had shimmied across on a fallen tree and was afraid I was going to topple the whole way across. So this time I tried going off and into the bushes on the left, and lo and behold, there was a very manageable path!
I have met two other peregrinos on the way. The starting conversations are always the same, with the same questions -- where are you from? Where are you going? (depending on time of day, this could refer to your final destination or your destination of the day) and Is this your first Camino? (answer usually no on any camino but the Camino Frances). So far the tally is one German and one Spaniard, both going to Santiago, and not the first camino for either. One question that doesn´t make it onto the list, though, even though it´s usually one of the first things we Americans ask each other is -- What do you do? Maybe the reason people don´t ask it here is because in Spanish the question "¿que haces? can mean both What are you doing now? and What do you do? Or maybe it´s because over here people´s identity is not so closely connected to their professional lives as it is in the US (and as I say this I can hear Joe groaning and telling me to give up with the pop sociology). Or maybe it`s because the reason we´re all on this Camino is because we want to get away from our work life so why would we bring it up.
The albergue is full (14 beds) and when I stopped by it seemed to be filled with two big groups of Spaniards. So I´m in the Hostal Bar Frances, where room and breakfast is 23 euros. And it has sheets! And a clean bathroom! And clean towels! What more could I ask for? I´ve already heard about a big group of 14 French walkers who will be staying in the same Hostal I´m in. Walking on the same stages as such a big group puts a crunch in things, especially when there aren´t so many places to stay.
Well, I am off to walk around the little town -- there are many First Communions today and everyone is all dolled up. Kind of funny to see the 10 year old girls with floor length white dresses and their moms in mini skirts and high heels!
Happy Labor Day -- I think we are the only country in the industrialized world not to celebrate it on May 1. In the US, it´s Law Day, but then every day is Law Day in the US!
Friday, April 30, 2010
In Madrid, but on the way out
Well, so far it hasn´t been too easy. The cardboard tube I checked didn´t arrive. It had my hiking poles, swiss army knife, and little scissors -- all potential weapons in the eyes of TSA. So, after an hour or so on line, blah blah blah, they told me sorry, bad luck, we will give you $50. And my tube, when found, will go back to Champaign.
GRRRR, well, step two. Off to the outdoor store where I had to go anyway to buy a spiffy rain poncho and send it on to Zamora, and there I was able to buy new Leki poles.
Step three. Go to the phone store and get a new SIM card -- no can do, Movistar no longer sells cards, you have to buy a new phone. Another grrrr.
Step four. Take the bus down the Castellana to Atocha to see if I can get on an earlier train to Sevilla. Not possible, all are full (tomorrow is a holiday).
So, I will arrive in Sevilla around 6:30, and tomorrow start to walk. Walking is a hundred times easier and more fun than this!
Miss you all!
GRRRR, well, step two. Off to the outdoor store where I had to go anyway to buy a spiffy rain poncho and send it on to Zamora, and there I was able to buy new Leki poles.
Step three. Go to the phone store and get a new SIM card -- no can do, Movistar no longer sells cards, you have to buy a new phone. Another grrrr.
Step four. Take the bus down the Castellana to Atocha to see if I can get on an earlier train to Sevilla. Not possible, all are full (tomorrow is a holiday).
So, I will arrive in Sevilla around 6:30, and tomorrow start to walk. Walking is a hundred times easier and more fun than this!
Miss you all!
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
My plan for the first two weeks
Here's my tentative idea of my stages for the first couple of weeks. These are pretty standard stops, it's not like the Camino Frances where you have tons of choices:
May 1 -- Guillena (Hostal Bar Frances)
May 2 -- Castilblanco de los Arroyos
May 3 -- Almaden de la Plata
May 4 -- Real de la Jara
May 5 -- Monesterio (the ham capital of Spain!)
May 6 -- Fuente de Cantos
May 7 -- Zafra (where I got bedbugs last year -- I will NOT be in the albergue -- reserved a room in Hotel Cervantes)
May 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros
May 9 -- Torremejia
May 10 -- Merida (beautiful Roman ruins here as well)
May 11 -- Aljucen
May 12 -- Alcuescar (a 3.5 km walk out to the Visigothic church Santa Lucia del Trampal is on my list)
May 13 -- Valdesalor (sleeping in the mayor's office, where the town puts out a few mattresses after work hours)
May 14 -- Casar de Caceres
May 15 -- Embalse de Alcantara, at the Pension LindaMar
May 1 -- Guillena (Hostal Bar Frances)
May 2 -- Castilblanco de los Arroyos
May 3 -- Almaden de la Plata
May 4 -- Real de la Jara
May 5 -- Monesterio (the ham capital of Spain!)
May 6 -- Fuente de Cantos
May 7 -- Zafra (where I got bedbugs last year -- I will NOT be in the albergue -- reserved a room in Hotel Cervantes)
May 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros
May 9 -- Torremejia
May 10 -- Merida (beautiful Roman ruins here as well)
May 11 -- Aljucen
May 12 -- Alcuescar (a 3.5 km walk out to the Visigothic church Santa Lucia del Trampal is on my list)
May 13 -- Valdesalor (sleeping in the mayor's office, where the town puts out a few mattresses after work hours)
May 14 -- Casar de Caceres
May 15 -- Embalse de Alcantara, at the Pension LindaMar
Leaving tomorrow
I cannot figure out how to add pictures to this blog from my camera, but I added these two from my computer so that I could look at my family every time I log on to write. I expect that this will be a picture-free blog until Dana joins me in Zamora and shows me how to do it. It's down to the last minute details -- got an 8 am haircut and am now making the big decisions about things like which headlamp to bring, whether to buy a new fancy rain poncho in Madrid, whether to bring the zip-off pants or just regular pants, all the fascinating minutia that comes with getting ready for a long walk. Since there's only room for one book in the pack (unless we make the move to kindle or an ipad, but not this year), I got recommendations for a long book that's not too heavy. Two of my close friends said to go for Cutting for Stone, so it's now snug in my pack.
I will arrive in Madrid early Friday morning. From the airport, I'll head to an outdoor store to buy a few things they are holding for me, then buy a card for our trusty cell phone (purchased on Camino #2 in 2002 for 25 euros, which included 25 euros of talk time), and then head down to Atocha to get the train to Sevilla.
I have decided not to take a rest day in Sevilla, thinking that I would do better to have an extra day that I could use along the way in case, perish the thought, my foot starts acting up. So I'll just pick up and go on Saturday morning. It's an easy 23 km/15 mile walk and goes past some important Roman ruins. I have made a reservation in the Hostal Bar Frances for my first night, so even if I sleep in late, I won't have to worry about being shut out of the albergue.
It feels kind of funny to be saying goodbye to everyone on a blog, so maybe I'll send some emails as well. I'm just not too used to this blog thing. I'll be in touch as soon as I can find internet -- I know there's an internet cafe in Sevilla about 3 blocks from my hotel, so I'll try to say hi from Sevilla.
YIPPEEEE!!!
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Two weeks to go!
Ok, I'm going to try this blog thing, and this is a test to see if I can figure out how to do the complicated stuff like put in pictures. The picture, if I've posted it correctly, shows the first marker of my walk from Sevilla, right across the street from the cathedral.
I started this walk last spring but had to stop in Caceres. My heel was a mess. Now I've got new orthotics, new shoes, and hope to make it from Sevilla to Santiago. I'll be walking the first 600 km to Zamora alone, then my dear walking partner Danagrina will join me for the last 400 into Santiago. It's a holy year, it will be busy, but we can't wait.
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